FINAL BIT
What can I say. We have had a fantastic holiday, but it was more than just a holiday it was an amazing experience. We have learnt a lot about our country – Australia and the people in it. We have learnt about ourselves and each other. We have travelled through such diverse environments – from flat grassy plains to mountains and the sea, through dry low scrub lands and mulga bush where termites make their mounds, up to the where there were hot springs on every corner it seemed and where there were waterfalls and rock pools to cool us off. Back down through the centre where it was a lot hillier than we expected and where the stories of indigenous people abound. The rock pebbles, marbles and boulders scattered across the landscape looking like someone had forgotten to pick them up after a game. The landscape of the MacDonnell Ranges was amazing with its jagged rock formations and gorges and amazing colours. Uluru and Kata with their changing colours and interesting formations. All the while admiring the beautiful colours of the wildflowers covering the hills and mountains as we travelled. As we entered SA it seemed like a different world with its rocky ground cover and sparse vegetation. Coober Pedy was yet another world of holes in the ground and white mounds of dirt. We experienced the outback in its glory as well as its fury. We saw old ruins and old towns and new developments where towns are bursting with life. We experienced underground life of the miners of opals, emeralds, and iron ore. We enjoyed watching all kinds of birds in their natural habitat and animals of all kinds, from big to tiny. We have seen the most amazing sunsets and sunrises and even moonrises. We enjoyed camping in the most beautiful of places – near rivers, under big old gums, near the sea, on top of mountains with great views, in the outback, in national parks and even in some caravan parks and roadside campgrounds. We also went on some great walks – short and long and enjoyed sitting by the fire most nights looking at the stars. I have to say Graeme cooks a pretty nice breakfast and I will miss cooking the vegies in the fire. We visited relatives along the way which made it even more special. We thank the Lord for his many blessings on us and for making such a wonderful world for us to explore and admire and for bringing us home safely to our family and friends.
Signing off from Our Big Holiday – our campervan adventure
Bev Hardidge
(July – August 2010)
Sunday, September 5, 2010
FIFTYSIXTH DAY – THURSDAY 2ND SEPTEMBER
It rained a bit during the night but we awoke to find blue skies and sunshine. It was our last farmers breakfast on our big trip and we ate it out in the sun. Graeme cooked it to perfection. We packed up our table and chairs, made sure the fire was out and off we went for the last time. We travelled south along a pot-holey dirt road but it was a solid road and came into Bendigo. We stopped at the info centre to find out about Toms Gold Mine, but they had no information at all – so much for an info centre! We then continued on south down the freeway back to Melbourne. As we got closer to Melbourne the clouds got darker and heavier. When we reached Mount Macedon it began to rain really heavily, and yet the sun shone through the clouds in spots. As we continued to get closer the clouds were braking up and the sun managed to shine through the gaps. The Snail went a bit slow up the hills into Melbourne and then we hit the traffic and traffic lights. We drove and stopped, drove and stopped all the way home. We arrived home about 2.20 pm to find Josh and the doggies home. We received a lovely reception from the doggies, they were so excited. It was also lovely to see Josh who was about to go off to work. We began to unload the van, but not too enthusiastically. Emma dropped in after work which was nice. Then Sam came home from school. We continued to unpack a bit but I think we’ll leave the rest for tomorrow – no big hurry.
It rained a bit during the night but we awoke to find blue skies and sunshine. It was our last farmers breakfast on our big trip and we ate it out in the sun. Graeme cooked it to perfection. We packed up our table and chairs, made sure the fire was out and off we went for the last time. We travelled south along a pot-holey dirt road but it was a solid road and came into Bendigo. We stopped at the info centre to find out about Toms Gold Mine, but they had no information at all – so much for an info centre! We then continued on south down the freeway back to Melbourne. As we got closer to Melbourne the clouds got darker and heavier. When we reached Mount Macedon it began to rain really heavily, and yet the sun shone through the clouds in spots. As we continued to get closer the clouds were braking up and the sun managed to shine through the gaps. The Snail went a bit slow up the hills into Melbourne and then we hit the traffic and traffic lights. We drove and stopped, drove and stopped all the way home. We arrived home about 2.20 pm to find Josh and the doggies home. We received a lovely reception from the doggies, they were so excited. It was also lovely to see Josh who was about to go off to work. We began to unload the van, but not too enthusiastically. Emma dropped in after work which was nice. Then Sam came home from school. We continued to unpack a bit but I think we’ll leave the rest for tomorrow – no big hurry.
FIFTYFIFTH DAY – WEDNESDAY 1ST SEPTEMBER
A pinch and punch for the first day of the month. It rained during the night and I was a bit worried as to how the dirt road was going to be. Graeme checked it out and all is good. Phew! We then had our usual farmers breakfast after sleeping in a bit, as we don’t have to go too far. We packed up and carefully negotiated the holes and puddles on our way out. We went into Echuca and bought a pass to look at the old wharf and surrounding area which included an exhibition of the olden days, the builders of redgum things, the blacksmith, the underground pub. We then bought some meat from a butcher and off we went down the road towards Bendigo. We decided to go down this way as there were more options of good camp spots. There was lots of yellow on the way in the form of wattles and big yellow paddocks of canola and lots of sheep herds and big dairy cow herds. As we got closer to Bendigo we found a way to bypass it to get to our last camp spot for our big trip at the Whipstick National State Park. We followed the directions in our Camps book and found a great camp spot at Shadbolt Campground. We are the only ones here and it is pretty quiet. We set up camp, collected some wood for our fire and then went for a walk to Toms Gold Mine. It was a pretty long walk, as it turned out, but a good one, through the bush. We finally reached Toms Mine which was basically a big hole in the ground cut through the rock. Along the way we were amazed that there was an open water canal that went for kms towards the mine. This would have been made at the time of the mine. We crossed over it on several occasions. We finally got back to the van after walking for a couple of hours. Graeme stoked up the fire ready to cook our vegies. It is sad to think that this is our last night but we are looking forward to seeing all the kids and my doggies and everyone again to tell them of our adventures.
A pinch and punch for the first day of the month. It rained during the night and I was a bit worried as to how the dirt road was going to be. Graeme checked it out and all is good. Phew! We then had our usual farmers breakfast after sleeping in a bit, as we don’t have to go too far. We packed up and carefully negotiated the holes and puddles on our way out. We went into Echuca and bought a pass to look at the old wharf and surrounding area which included an exhibition of the olden days, the builders of redgum things, the blacksmith, the underground pub. We then bought some meat from a butcher and off we went down the road towards Bendigo. We decided to go down this way as there were more options of good camp spots. There was lots of yellow on the way in the form of wattles and big yellow paddocks of canola and lots of sheep herds and big dairy cow herds. As we got closer to Bendigo we found a way to bypass it to get to our last camp spot for our big trip at the Whipstick National State Park. We followed the directions in our Camps book and found a great camp spot at Shadbolt Campground. We are the only ones here and it is pretty quiet. We set up camp, collected some wood for our fire and then went for a walk to Toms Gold Mine. It was a pretty long walk, as it turned out, but a good one, through the bush. We finally reached Toms Mine which was basically a big hole in the ground cut through the rock. Along the way we were amazed that there was an open water canal that went for kms towards the mine. This would have been made at the time of the mine. We crossed over it on several occasions. We finally got back to the van after walking for a couple of hours. Graeme stoked up the fire ready to cook our vegies. It is sad to think that this is our last night but we are looking forward to seeing all the kids and my doggies and everyone again to tell them of our adventures.
FIFTYFOURTH DAY – TUESDAY 31ST AUGUST
Slept in a bit this morning. I got up and made a farmers breakfast – probably not as good as what Graeme cooks it though. We travelled down the Murray Valley Hwy towards Swan Hill. We stopped to look at the Tyntyndyer Historic Homestead but unfortunately there was no one there so we had a quick look ourselves and left. It looked as though it had been a good tourist location but it seems to be a little run down now. We entered Swan Hill and Graeme wanted to go to KFC to buy some chicken so he could use it for bait to try and catch some big Murray crayfish. Found KFC, bought some and continued on down the road. There were many beautiful wattles out in flower along the way. We headed for Torrumbarry Weir which was our overnight destination. We checked out the weir across the Murray which was an amazing structure. They even made a special area which they called a ‘ladder’ where the fish are able to go upstream through. We then ventured down the dirt road towards our camp spot. It was a bit touch and go as it had been raining and there were a few puddles along the road. As you have read about our not-so-good track record of going down dirt roads I was a little unsure, however Graeme was confident it would be alright. We found a really nice place near the river after collecting some firewood along the way. We settled down for the evening. Graeme made his usually good fire and we watched and listened to all the bird life settling down for the night too. They made a pretty big noise about it – especially the sulphur crested cookatoos. Boy! Do they make a commotion. We swear that one that landed in the tree above us said “Hello”. Graeme didn’t have much luck in catching any crayfish with the KFC. All he caught were these itsy bitsy little shrimp type things and they were promptly thrown back. We had a delicious dinner cooked in the fire and marshmallows to finish off the evening.
Slept in a bit this morning. I got up and made a farmers breakfast – probably not as good as what Graeme cooks it though. We travelled down the Murray Valley Hwy towards Swan Hill. We stopped to look at the Tyntyndyer Historic Homestead but unfortunately there was no one there so we had a quick look ourselves and left. It looked as though it had been a good tourist location but it seems to be a little run down now. We entered Swan Hill and Graeme wanted to go to KFC to buy some chicken so he could use it for bait to try and catch some big Murray crayfish. Found KFC, bought some and continued on down the road. There were many beautiful wattles out in flower along the way. We headed for Torrumbarry Weir which was our overnight destination. We checked out the weir across the Murray which was an amazing structure. They even made a special area which they called a ‘ladder’ where the fish are able to go upstream through. We then ventured down the dirt road towards our camp spot. It was a bit touch and go as it had been raining and there were a few puddles along the road. As you have read about our not-so-good track record of going down dirt roads I was a little unsure, however Graeme was confident it would be alright. We found a really nice place near the river after collecting some firewood along the way. We settled down for the evening. Graeme made his usually good fire and we watched and listened to all the bird life settling down for the night too. They made a pretty big noise about it – especially the sulphur crested cookatoos. Boy! Do they make a commotion. We swear that one that landed in the tree above us said “Hello”. Graeme didn’t have much luck in catching any crayfish with the KFC. All he caught were these itsy bitsy little shrimp type things and they were promptly thrown back. We had a delicious dinner cooked in the fire and marshmallows to finish off the evening.
FIFTYTHIRD DAY – MONDAY 30TH AUGUST
Colin made us his yummy porridge and we also had an egg on toast with tomato – a big breakfast. Graeme went and picked some mandarins and oranges for us to take home. Eunice also gave us a few of their home grown pumpkins as well. So we are well and truly stocked up! We said our goodbyes and hugged and off we went at about 10.15 am. We then went to woollies to get some supplies and then to the Angus Park shop to buy some dried fruit and yummies. Filled up our petrol and away we went over the bridge back into NSW as that’s the way to go down along the Murray. We travelled along the Sturt Highway until Robinvale which is back into Victoria and then travelled along the Murray River to Nyah State Forest where we are camped for the night along the river. It is just before Swan Hill. Along the way there were many orchards of olives, pears, apples, peaches and of course lots of grapevines. We are now camped right next to a bend in the river were the water swirls around the corner and makes interesting patterns in the water. Every now and then the water makes a big woooshing sound, and it really sounds like there is a big something swimming in the water. There are many birds here and we watched a Great Egret standing in the water catching small fish with his beak – he was very good at it. There were also blue wrens hopping about and Kookaburras laughing in the gumtrees and galahs and a few other birds I couldn’t quite identify. Later in the evening just before it got really dark we noticed very small bats flying overhead catching bugs, they were fun to watch. We had collected some wood and Graeme made a beaut fire in which we cooked our veggies. We also had lamb rump steaks. We sat in front of the fire and spoke about the last few days we have had in Mildura and visiting the relatives which was very enjoyable.
Colin made us his yummy porridge and we also had an egg on toast with tomato – a big breakfast. Graeme went and picked some mandarins and oranges for us to take home. Eunice also gave us a few of their home grown pumpkins as well. So we are well and truly stocked up! We said our goodbyes and hugged and off we went at about 10.15 am. We then went to woollies to get some supplies and then to the Angus Park shop to buy some dried fruit and yummies. Filled up our petrol and away we went over the bridge back into NSW as that’s the way to go down along the Murray. We travelled along the Sturt Highway until Robinvale which is back into Victoria and then travelled along the Murray River to Nyah State Forest where we are camped for the night along the river. It is just before Swan Hill. Along the way there were many orchards of olives, pears, apples, peaches and of course lots of grapevines. We are now camped right next to a bend in the river were the water swirls around the corner and makes interesting patterns in the water. Every now and then the water makes a big woooshing sound, and it really sounds like there is a big something swimming in the water. There are many birds here and we watched a Great Egret standing in the water catching small fish with his beak – he was very good at it. There were also blue wrens hopping about and Kookaburras laughing in the gumtrees and galahs and a few other birds I couldn’t quite identify. Later in the evening just before it got really dark we noticed very small bats flying overhead catching bugs, they were fun to watch. We had collected some wood and Graeme made a beaut fire in which we cooked our veggies. We also had lamb rump steaks. We sat in front of the fire and spoke about the last few days we have had in Mildura and visiting the relatives which was very enjoyable.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
FIFTYSECOND DAY – SUNDAY 29TH AUGUST
HAPPY BIRTHDAY EMMA We had a yummy porridge breaky then went off to church. We had warm soup after church while chatting to some people we knew from way back. Then went back to the house and had a nice lunch and talked more about our trip and the relatives. About 3 pm we piled into Colin’s car and went and visited my cousin Janet Smith and husband Neil. We had afternoon tea there and had a good chat about family etc. We then went for a bit of a tour around Mildura and they also showed us a scrap yard that Graeme was very interested in. We just drove past but there was anything you could imagine there. Graeme was wishing he could take some of it home!! To make sculptures with. We then went and visited my aunty Jess and aunty Dell, both in Irymple. We finally got back ‘home’ and then had tacos for tea. It was a pretty tiring day of talking and visiting but a good day. We then veged out in front of the TV and watched the final of Dancing with the Stars.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY EMMA We had a yummy porridge breaky then went off to church. We had warm soup after church while chatting to some people we knew from way back. Then went back to the house and had a nice lunch and talked more about our trip and the relatives. About 3 pm we piled into Colin’s car and went and visited my cousin Janet Smith and husband Neil. We had afternoon tea there and had a good chat about family etc. We then went for a bit of a tour around Mildura and they also showed us a scrap yard that Graeme was very interested in. We just drove past but there was anything you could imagine there. Graeme was wishing he could take some of it home!! To make sculptures with. We then went and visited my aunty Jess and aunty Dell, both in Irymple. We finally got back ‘home’ and then had tacos for tea. It was a pretty tiring day of talking and visiting but a good day. We then veged out in front of the TV and watched the final of Dancing with the Stars.
FIFTYFIRST DAY – SATURDAY 28TH AUGUST
Uncle Colin made some very nice porridge for breaky in which we added sultanas and honey and soy milk. Then my cousin Peter turned up with his family – wife Tara, and kids – Gus and Frayer (who was born the day of my mums funeral) which I think was quite special. We had a great morning chatting to them about all sorts of things. They left to go to Ballarat for a few days and we went off, after I did a much needed load of washing, to the Wentworth Country Show. The show was great. Very country with lots of animals, food, stalls, showbags and the competitions like – best photo, best cake, best chutney/jam, best vegetable creature, best friendly rock, best painting, best flower arrangement etc etc etc. We were there for a few hours, sampling food, wine and enjoying the atmosphere. We then headed off to look at the Perry Sand Hills which are just north of Wentworth. They have been used in movies. I love the colour of the sand. We walked over them and around them. Then we headed back to Mildura where we had a look at the Gem Cave. There were lots and lots of gemstones made into jewellery. Almost too much to look at in one go. The place was decorated to look like a cave so it was a pretty interesting place. We then went back to the Gaulke’s place for dinner. When we arrived I discovered that my aunty had already taken my washing off the line and had ironed everything and folded it all neatly – what a gem. (Can I keep her?) we had a lovely dinner of chicken pattie and salad and custard (real homemade custard not out of the carton) and fruit salad – very yummy. Watched a bit of TV which really didn’t interest me so I went and phoned the kids.
Uncle Colin made some very nice porridge for breaky in which we added sultanas and honey and soy milk. Then my cousin Peter turned up with his family – wife Tara, and kids – Gus and Frayer (who was born the day of my mums funeral) which I think was quite special. We had a great morning chatting to them about all sorts of things. They left to go to Ballarat for a few days and we went off, after I did a much needed load of washing, to the Wentworth Country Show. The show was great. Very country with lots of animals, food, stalls, showbags and the competitions like – best photo, best cake, best chutney/jam, best vegetable creature, best friendly rock, best painting, best flower arrangement etc etc etc. We were there for a few hours, sampling food, wine and enjoying the atmosphere. We then headed off to look at the Perry Sand Hills which are just north of Wentworth. They have been used in movies. I love the colour of the sand. We walked over them and around them. Then we headed back to Mildura where we had a look at the Gem Cave. There were lots and lots of gemstones made into jewellery. Almost too much to look at in one go. The place was decorated to look like a cave so it was a pretty interesting place. We then went back to the Gaulke’s place for dinner. When we arrived I discovered that my aunty had already taken my washing off the line and had ironed everything and folded it all neatly – what a gem. (Can I keep her?) we had a lovely dinner of chicken pattie and salad and custard (real homemade custard not out of the carton) and fruit salad – very yummy. Watched a bit of TV which really didn’t interest me so I went and phoned the kids.
FIFTITH DAY – FRIDAY 27TH AUGUST
Slept in this morning. Had pancakes and eggs for breaky and left about 11.30 am. We drove around the area where we stayed the night. There are lots of huge old gum trees and many of them have aboriginal scars on them. We then went into Wentworth and looked around there for a bit and headed back over The Murray River into Victoria and down to Mildura. We easily found where my aunty and uncle live and drove in their driveway. They were expecting us and my cousin greeted us when we arrived and informed us that Colin and Eunice were out pruning the grape vines. So we trotted off down the block to find them. They were delighted to see us and there were lots of hugs. We then went back to the house and we chatted a lot over some afternoon tea. There was lots of talk about holidays and it was great to catch up with them. Eunice made a lovely silverbeet pie for dinner and pikelets with golden syrup and icecream for dessert. They showed us some of their holiday photos which were actually really interesting as they were photos of where we had been also it you could see the change after ten years. We then went off to bed
Slept in this morning. Had pancakes and eggs for breaky and left about 11.30 am. We drove around the area where we stayed the night. There are lots of huge old gum trees and many of them have aboriginal scars on them. We then went into Wentworth and looked around there for a bit and headed back over The Murray River into Victoria and down to Mildura. We easily found where my aunty and uncle live and drove in their driveway. They were expecting us and my cousin greeted us when we arrived and informed us that Colin and Eunice were out pruning the grape vines. So we trotted off down the block to find them. They were delighted to see us and there were lots of hugs. We then went back to the house and we chatted a lot over some afternoon tea. There was lots of talk about holidays and it was great to catch up with them. Eunice made a lovely silverbeet pie for dinner and pikelets with golden syrup and icecream for dessert. They showed us some of their holiday photos which were actually really interesting as they were photos of where we had been also it you could see the change after ten years. We then went off to bed
FORTYNINETH DAY – THURSDAY 26TH AUGUST
We woke up to a very windy cold morning, but dry. It is cloudy so not quite sure which road we should take – the one back to Broken Hill and down the main road or on to Pooncarie which is 123kms of dirt road. We went into the township of Menindee to find out what the weather report was so we could make a choice. There was a note on the info centre window about the road conditions and weather report and it said cloudy but fine, all roads were open. We then went to the Police Station to check and they had a board which said all roads open, cloudy and fine. So we thought we would take the risk and go the dirt road way. We travelled along the pretty good dirt road however it was a bit windy and we were a bit slow in sections. we saw emus and sheep and horses along the way. Half way along the dirt road, as we entered into a new council, we came to a section of bitumen road which ran for a few kms, which was a nice interlude from dirt. We then hit the dirt road again. A few travellers passed us along the way. About 30 kms north of Pooncarie which was our destination for the day, it started to spit. We had to keep going and so we just hoped it wouldn’t get any worse. It got worse! The rains came and up ahead we could see that the 4WD had had some ‘fun’ on the dirt road. In wasn’t too bad, we thought, we were able to go along without too much difficulty. But, we came upon some slippery patches and that was something else! One section was so slippery Graeme used all his efforts to keep us on the road and upright. We slipped back and forth and I think at one point I actually screamed – thinking we might tip over – Yes! It was that bad! We got through that and there were a couple of other slippery areas until we reached Pooncarie and the bitumen road. We stopped and took stock of ourselves and the van. The bikes on the back collected a lot of mud and the sides of the van were red with mud – but we had made it and so did the contents of the van although some things were not where they were originally! We checked out the campsite we were going to stay at but it was pretty muddy beside the Darling River and so we were not sure about that. We went into the town and stopped at a craft/cafe shop were we discovered that most of the travellers that had past us were all there too. One lot were happy to see that we made it as they had trouble as well as did many of them. We had hot drinks and toasted sandwiches. Checked out the crafts of wooded carved objects, photos and paintings of the area. the owner of the cafe was a character and asked where we were heading. We said we were thinking of staying in Pooncarie and suggested we keep going considering the weather has made the campground bad. So we decided to continue on to Wentworth. We drove through more rain and sunshine and rain and sunshine and were happy we had got off the dirt road before the heavy rain came. We arrived in Wentworth and went to info centre where we found out that that road had now been closed! We found out about some free camping along the Murray River so off we went and found ourselves a lovely spot in amongst the gum trees overlooking the river. Later in the day it became clear and sunny but still windy. It was nice to just chill out after the morning we had. This was a good spot to camp. We collected some firewood and Graeme made a lovely roaring hot fire on which we cooked our vegies once again. I love vegies cooked on the fire – it’s so easy just to wrap them up in foil and plonk them in the coals – done. We also had marshmallows. Went to bed at 9 pm.
We woke up to a very windy cold morning, but dry. It is cloudy so not quite sure which road we should take – the one back to Broken Hill and down the main road or on to Pooncarie which is 123kms of dirt road. We went into the township of Menindee to find out what the weather report was so we could make a choice. There was a note on the info centre window about the road conditions and weather report and it said cloudy but fine, all roads were open. We then went to the Police Station to check and they had a board which said all roads open, cloudy and fine. So we thought we would take the risk and go the dirt road way. We travelled along the pretty good dirt road however it was a bit windy and we were a bit slow in sections. we saw emus and sheep and horses along the way. Half way along the dirt road, as we entered into a new council, we came to a section of bitumen road which ran for a few kms, which was a nice interlude from dirt. We then hit the dirt road again. A few travellers passed us along the way. About 30 kms north of Pooncarie which was our destination for the day, it started to spit. We had to keep going and so we just hoped it wouldn’t get any worse. It got worse! The rains came and up ahead we could see that the 4WD had had some ‘fun’ on the dirt road. In wasn’t too bad, we thought, we were able to go along without too much difficulty. But, we came upon some slippery patches and that was something else! One section was so slippery Graeme used all his efforts to keep us on the road and upright. We slipped back and forth and I think at one point I actually screamed – thinking we might tip over – Yes! It was that bad! We got through that and there were a couple of other slippery areas until we reached Pooncarie and the bitumen road. We stopped and took stock of ourselves and the van. The bikes on the back collected a lot of mud and the sides of the van were red with mud – but we had made it and so did the contents of the van although some things were not where they were originally! We checked out the campsite we were going to stay at but it was pretty muddy beside the Darling River and so we were not sure about that. We went into the town and stopped at a craft/cafe shop were we discovered that most of the travellers that had past us were all there too. One lot were happy to see that we made it as they had trouble as well as did many of them. We had hot drinks and toasted sandwiches. Checked out the crafts of wooded carved objects, photos and paintings of the area. the owner of the cafe was a character and asked where we were heading. We said we were thinking of staying in Pooncarie and suggested we keep going considering the weather has made the campground bad. So we decided to continue on to Wentworth. We drove through more rain and sunshine and rain and sunshine and were happy we had got off the dirt road before the heavy rain came. We arrived in Wentworth and went to info centre where we found out that that road had now been closed! We found out about some free camping along the Murray River so off we went and found ourselves a lovely spot in amongst the gum trees overlooking the river. Later in the day it became clear and sunny but still windy. It was nice to just chill out after the morning we had. This was a good spot to camp. We collected some firewood and Graeme made a lovely roaring hot fire on which we cooked our vegies once again. I love vegies cooked on the fire – it’s so easy just to wrap them up in foil and plonk them in the coals – done. We also had marshmallows. Went to bed at 9 pm.
FORTYEIGHTH DAY – WEDNESDAY 25TH AUGUST
We had some fruit damper for breaky with cuppas, packed up and left Silverton at eight am. We went into Broken Hill and first went to see ‘The Living Desert’ – but first we had to get a key from the info centre, which we did. We drove up to the first gate, unlocked it, drove through, then closed the gate. Drove a bit further and then another gate, the same. We continued up a windy steep narrow road up the hill, to the top. We then nearly got blown away by the wind while we walked around the top to view the big rock sculptures which have been carved by artist from all around the world. Then we continued back through the gates, stopping to view the beautiful display of Sturt Dessert Peas growing on the side of the hill – they are so magnificent, and then off back to Broken Hill. We then went and checked out the Pro Hart Gallery and then into the town centre. Took the key back to info centre to get our $20 deposit and then went and checked out some galleries of which there are many. I love all the old houses here in Broken Hill – it is a pretty old town and full of interesting buildings and history. We decided not to go on another mine tour as we figured it would be much the same only for silver. By about 2.30 pm we had view enough galleries and seen enough painters (well Graeme had, I could just keep going with the viewing of paintings) we travelled towards Menindee. On the way we saw quite a few emus and their babies and a big red kangaroo just standing not far from the road. We are actually camped on the Darling River just before Menindee. We found a spot near a very old river red gum. It looks like it could tell a story or two. When we sat down by our fire the gum had this look about it. We could see a face within the bark and felt the old tree had definitely been before. This site is where Burke and Wills the explorers had set up camp before splitting their group – one of Burke and Wills and a few others who went discovering north and never came back and another group who stayed here on the Darling River for a year, waiting for their return. So you can imagine the old gum had certainly seen a thing or two. I watched the sun go down over the Menindee Lakes and then watched the moonrise over another part of the lake. I think it looks like a full moon tonight – it is amazing. We cooked our vegies on the fire again and had crumbed lamb cutlets. We got to have toasted marshmallows tonight after the sprinkling of rain passed. We got a bit nervous when the rain began since that rain experience in Coober Pedy but we are all ready packed just in case the rain gets worse and we have to get out fast. I don’t think it will be as bad here though as there isn’t the bull dust like at Coober Pedy – but once bitten twice shy!
We had some fruit damper for breaky with cuppas, packed up and left Silverton at eight am. We went into Broken Hill and first went to see ‘The Living Desert’ – but first we had to get a key from the info centre, which we did. We drove up to the first gate, unlocked it, drove through, then closed the gate. Drove a bit further and then another gate, the same. We continued up a windy steep narrow road up the hill, to the top. We then nearly got blown away by the wind while we walked around the top to view the big rock sculptures which have been carved by artist from all around the world. Then we continued back through the gates, stopping to view the beautiful display of Sturt Dessert Peas growing on the side of the hill – they are so magnificent, and then off back to Broken Hill. We then went and checked out the Pro Hart Gallery and then into the town centre. Took the key back to info centre to get our $20 deposit and then went and checked out some galleries of which there are many. I love all the old houses here in Broken Hill – it is a pretty old town and full of interesting buildings and history. We decided not to go on another mine tour as we figured it would be much the same only for silver. By about 2.30 pm we had view enough galleries and seen enough painters (well Graeme had, I could just keep going with the viewing of paintings) we travelled towards Menindee. On the way we saw quite a few emus and their babies and a big red kangaroo just standing not far from the road. We are actually camped on the Darling River just before Menindee. We found a spot near a very old river red gum. It looks like it could tell a story or two. When we sat down by our fire the gum had this look about it. We could see a face within the bark and felt the old tree had definitely been before. This site is where Burke and Wills the explorers had set up camp before splitting their group – one of Burke and Wills and a few others who went discovering north and never came back and another group who stayed here on the Darling River for a year, waiting for their return. So you can imagine the old gum had certainly seen a thing or two. I watched the sun go down over the Menindee Lakes and then watched the moonrise over another part of the lake. I think it looks like a full moon tonight – it is amazing. We cooked our vegies on the fire again and had crumbed lamb cutlets. We got to have toasted marshmallows tonight after the sprinkling of rain passed. We got a bit nervous when the rain began since that rain experience in Coober Pedy but we are all ready packed just in case the rain gets worse and we have to get out fast. I don’t think it will be as bad here though as there isn’t the bull dust like at Coober Pedy – but once bitten twice shy!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
FORTYSEVENTH DAY – TUESDAY 24TH AUGUST
It was a cold and frosty morning with no clouds. We had breaky, packed up and off to Broken Hill. There were undulating green hills with sheep and pockets of scrub. As the morning went on a light layer of cloud covered the sky. It was pretty windy which made the driving a bit slow. There were many nice old farm houses scattered amongst the hills – this area reminds us a lot of Casterton. We stopped at the SA/NSW boarder at a place called Cockburn. There was a roadhouse and as you walk in you can’t help but notice all the walls are covered in peoples signatures. We grabbed a couple of toasted sandwiches and had a chat to the sheila who worked there – and yes she really was a ‘sheila’. We continued on through hilly country covered in very short ground covers – some succulents and others grasses and bushes. The colours were lovely with different coloured greens and a scattering of pink, purple, orange and yellow flowers. We reached Broken Hill and went straight to the info centre to get a map. We then went and checked out a couple of caravan parks – none of which really enticed us. We looked at the info we collected and decided to go out of town up north to a historic town called Silverton. It was only 25kms and they have a campground there and it sounded like a really interesting place to visit. So off we went. After bumping along through 39 Dips (no crackers!) we reached Silverton. Silverton is a very old town of scattered old buildings and ruins. Some of the buildings are being used for art galleries, a pub, info centre, a cafe and a couple of residences. Many of the buildings are just for looking at. The town has been used for filming many movies including Mad Max 2, A Town Like Alice and Razorback to name a few and countless TV commercials. We drove to Mundi Mundi Lookout and Umberumberka Reservoir. While we were looking out from the lookout we noticed lots of vehicles down on the plains. We looked through the binoculars and noticed some Mad Max type vehicles. They were hooning up and down a dirt road out in the middle of nowhere. When we went back into Silverton we asked and they said it is a bit secretive but they think it is preliminary filming for Mad Max 4. We looked around the town some more and then went and settled into the campsite which is pretty nice. They have some animals and birds in cages and there was a very funny corella called Jack which talked and danced. We were going to have lamb chops for tea but we realized they had actually frozen so we decided to have soup and crumpets instead.
It was a cold and frosty morning with no clouds. We had breaky, packed up and off to Broken Hill. There were undulating green hills with sheep and pockets of scrub. As the morning went on a light layer of cloud covered the sky. It was pretty windy which made the driving a bit slow. There were many nice old farm houses scattered amongst the hills – this area reminds us a lot of Casterton. We stopped at the SA/NSW boarder at a place called Cockburn. There was a roadhouse and as you walk in you can’t help but notice all the walls are covered in peoples signatures. We grabbed a couple of toasted sandwiches and had a chat to the sheila who worked there – and yes she really was a ‘sheila’. We continued on through hilly country covered in very short ground covers – some succulents and others grasses and bushes. The colours were lovely with different coloured greens and a scattering of pink, purple, orange and yellow flowers. We reached Broken Hill and went straight to the info centre to get a map. We then went and checked out a couple of caravan parks – none of which really enticed us. We looked at the info we collected and decided to go out of town up north to a historic town called Silverton. It was only 25kms and they have a campground there and it sounded like a really interesting place to visit. So off we went. After bumping along through 39 Dips (no crackers!) we reached Silverton. Silverton is a very old town of scattered old buildings and ruins. Some of the buildings are being used for art galleries, a pub, info centre, a cafe and a couple of residences. Many of the buildings are just for looking at. The town has been used for filming many movies including Mad Max 2, A Town Like Alice and Razorback to name a few and countless TV commercials. We drove to Mundi Mundi Lookout and Umberumberka Reservoir. While we were looking out from the lookout we noticed lots of vehicles down on the plains. We looked through the binoculars and noticed some Mad Max type vehicles. They were hooning up and down a dirt road out in the middle of nowhere. When we went back into Silverton we asked and they said it is a bit secretive but they think it is preliminary filming for Mad Max 4. We looked around the town some more and then went and settled into the campsite which is pretty nice. They have some animals and birds in cages and there was a very funny corella called Jack which talked and danced. We were going to have lamb chops for tea but we realized they had actually frozen so we decided to have soup and crumpets instead.
Monday, August 23, 2010
FORTYSIXTH DAY – MONDAY 23RD AUGUST
We got up early, had breaky and left by 7.20 am. Along the way we saw open plains of succulents, some of which were flowering. Then suddenly the landscape changed to low level shrubs then to taller trees with surrounding grass then back to the open plains of succulents. It was pretty windy still and about 77 km north or Port Augusta we caught up with the rain! On our way we also notice lots of very old trucks heading the opposite direction. One stopped near us and Graeme asked where they were heading. They said to Alice Springs Truck Hall of Fame for a big thing there next weekend. A pity we missed out on that but we get to see them go past, and there is a lot of them. We arrived in Port Augusta about 10.20 am and got a map of the town from the info centre so we could find the shops we needed. Graeme then went and did some grocery shopping while I hopped on the internet to download my blogs and check emails etc. We filled up with fuel, water and food and then had lunch just out of PA in a rest area. We then turned east onto B56 and away we went. Well! It was a bit of a struggle for the poor old Snail up a gradual slope toward the South Flinders Rangers. We were up against a side wind and The Snail could only manage 40 kph! We then reached the actual mountains and travelled through Horracks Pass. This was a beautiful area with big old red gum trees along both sides of the windy road. Once we reached the other side there was a flat patchwork of green and yellow paddocks of crops and dotted with orange sheep and old ruins. The clouds were amazing and we were managing to just be ahead of the big black rain clouds. We were surrounded by rain in the distance and were hoping it wouldn’t catch up to us. We dropped in to see a very Big Old Gum Tree near Orooroo that they say is over 500 years old – and yes it was pretty big. We then got to the wayside stop that we thought could be our overnight stay spot. We just got there and it began to get very windy and started to rain, but the spot was not very nice and we could see clear skies ahead so decided to keep going to the next wayside stop. We got to Peterborough and it is a lovely old town with nice old buildings. We travelled through it to get to the wayside stop and when we got there it looked like a good one so we stopped for the night. There are several other vans here as well. There was a nice fiery sunset through the mulga trees and the moon is almost full. The clouds cleared and it is very cold, but the wind has died down. We had roast vegies and steak for tea. Graeme considered making a fire but it is just too cold to be outside to appreciate it and we didn’t want to waste the wood. We’ll keep it for another night. No marshmallows tonight!
We got up early, had breaky and left by 7.20 am. Along the way we saw open plains of succulents, some of which were flowering. Then suddenly the landscape changed to low level shrubs then to taller trees with surrounding grass then back to the open plains of succulents. It was pretty windy still and about 77 km north or Port Augusta we caught up with the rain! On our way we also notice lots of very old trucks heading the opposite direction. One stopped near us and Graeme asked where they were heading. They said to Alice Springs Truck Hall of Fame for a big thing there next weekend. A pity we missed out on that but we get to see them go past, and there is a lot of them. We arrived in Port Augusta about 10.20 am and got a map of the town from the info centre so we could find the shops we needed. Graeme then went and did some grocery shopping while I hopped on the internet to download my blogs and check emails etc. We filled up with fuel, water and food and then had lunch just out of PA in a rest area. We then turned east onto B56 and away we went. Well! It was a bit of a struggle for the poor old Snail up a gradual slope toward the South Flinders Rangers. We were up against a side wind and The Snail could only manage 40 kph! We then reached the actual mountains and travelled through Horracks Pass. This was a beautiful area with big old red gum trees along both sides of the windy road. Once we reached the other side there was a flat patchwork of green and yellow paddocks of crops and dotted with orange sheep and old ruins. The clouds were amazing and we were managing to just be ahead of the big black rain clouds. We were surrounded by rain in the distance and were hoping it wouldn’t catch up to us. We dropped in to see a very Big Old Gum Tree near Orooroo that they say is over 500 years old – and yes it was pretty big. We then got to the wayside stop that we thought could be our overnight stay spot. We just got there and it began to get very windy and started to rain, but the spot was not very nice and we could see clear skies ahead so decided to keep going to the next wayside stop. We got to Peterborough and it is a lovely old town with nice old buildings. We travelled through it to get to the wayside stop and when we got there it looked like a good one so we stopped for the night. There are several other vans here as well. There was a nice fiery sunset through the mulga trees and the moon is almost full. The clouds cleared and it is very cold, but the wind has died down. We had roast vegies and steak for tea. Graeme considered making a fire but it is just too cold to be outside to appreciate it and we didn’t want to waste the wood. We’ll keep it for another night. No marshmallows tonight!
Sunday, August 22, 2010
FORTYFIFTH DAY – SUNDAY 22ND AUGUST
During the night it started to rain. At first it was only light sprinkles and then it stopped so we thought nothing of it and went back to sleep. Later on we woke to hear it raining more heavily and it didn’t seem like it was going to stop. We became a bit concerned as we were parked on a low spot near the creek and thought we should shift to higher ground. So at 3.45 am we kind of packed up the van and shifted it to a higher location. We then went back to sleep – sort of. The rain continued at a steady pace the rest of the night. When it became light we awoke to discover that it had actually been raining really heavily most of the night and we were a bit worried about how we were going to get out of there! We immediately went into action by moving the van onto the road – that was a bit slippery going. Then we collected the table and some other bits we left at our first spot and got mud and small stones stuck to our shoes. We just piled everything in the van and tried to get out of there before it got any worse. While we were stopped on the road a police 4WD vehicle passed us and did not even stop to ask us if we were alright!!! I was cross that they didn’t stop and I didn’t understand why they did not stop!!! We then gritted our teeth, said some prayers and slip slided our way up the road. The van managed to go about two kilometres before it started losing traction on the muddy road and came to a very slow snail pace crawl. Then it stopped with the wheels spinning in the muddy bull dust!! While we were inching forward another 4WD came snaking its way past us and Graeme flashed the headlights on. The 4WD stopped and backed up while Graeme got out and squelched through the mud to ask the guys if they could give us a tow. They were a bit hesitant at first cause they were also sliding around but said they’d give it a go. Graeme got out our tow rope and attached us to their vehicle then off we ‘raced’ at 20 kph through the slush, slipping and sliding sideways all the way out. The passenger in the 4WD was video taping the experience as we went. I think they may have quite enjoyed it. There were a couple of steep hills to climb and at one point the driver of the 4WD put his arm out with his thumb up – great going. We also drove through floodways – small depressions where the water goes across the road – they were exciting, as the water splashed quite high as we both drove through them. It took about a half an hour to get out on the main road. We offered the guys some money for their troubles but they kindly refused to accept it. We were very grateful and thanked the lord for very kind good people in this world and for providing us with our rescue team. We stopped and said our thankyous and goodbyes and they went north and we turned south and continued on our way. It continued to rain all day as we travelled along the ‘frog and toad.’ (Graeme’s input) We stopped at Glendambo to top up with fuel and we thought some nice warm food for lunch would be nice. I ordered the minestrone soup with toast which was all they had left of the soup so Graeme ordered eggs on toast – we didn’t have breakfast. So we waited and waited and waited for our meal as others were also waiting, waiting, waiting. They only had two people serving and didn’t seem very efficient. When we finally got our meal, I got my soup without toast and Graeme was handed raisin toast. We said he ordered eggs on toast and she apologized and took it away and made eggs on toast but Graeme had to pay more because the guy got it all wrong. By this stage I had forgotten I was supposed to have toast with my soup and Graeme finally got his meal. We shared the meals and got out of there. We were a bit annoyed because we should have just made some breaky for ourselves in the van – it would have been much nicer and less expensive but thought we would give ourselves a treat considering the morning we had. We continued on through the rain and strong head winds which slowed us down even further. We had decided to stop at Lake Hart Lookout rest area and when we finally made it there we stopped and stayed. There were a few other people stopped here too. The weather is the worse we have encountered on our whole trip and we still can’t believe those cops in the 4WD didn’t stop! We sorted out all the stuff in the van as we had just dumped it all in the back and cleaned up the floor from mud and stones. It was a bit of a clean up job. Then we sat and relaxed. I made some scones in the oven for afternoon tea which also helped to warm up the van. We had our Devonshire tea while looking out the windows at the wet windy weather outside and watching some of the other people trying to deal with this dreaded weather. Later on Graeme made tea of roasted vegies in the oven (to warm us up as well) and lamb loin chops. We then went to bed pretty early – 7.30 pm. What a day!! Thank you God for keeping us safe.
During the night it started to rain. At first it was only light sprinkles and then it stopped so we thought nothing of it and went back to sleep. Later on we woke to hear it raining more heavily and it didn’t seem like it was going to stop. We became a bit concerned as we were parked on a low spot near the creek and thought we should shift to higher ground. So at 3.45 am we kind of packed up the van and shifted it to a higher location. We then went back to sleep – sort of. The rain continued at a steady pace the rest of the night. When it became light we awoke to discover that it had actually been raining really heavily most of the night and we were a bit worried about how we were going to get out of there! We immediately went into action by moving the van onto the road – that was a bit slippery going. Then we collected the table and some other bits we left at our first spot and got mud and small stones stuck to our shoes. We just piled everything in the van and tried to get out of there before it got any worse. While we were stopped on the road a police 4WD vehicle passed us and did not even stop to ask us if we were alright!!! I was cross that they didn’t stop and I didn’t understand why they did not stop!!! We then gritted our teeth, said some prayers and slip slided our way up the road. The van managed to go about two kilometres before it started losing traction on the muddy road and came to a very slow snail pace crawl. Then it stopped with the wheels spinning in the muddy bull dust!! While we were inching forward another 4WD came snaking its way past us and Graeme flashed the headlights on. The 4WD stopped and backed up while Graeme got out and squelched through the mud to ask the guys if they could give us a tow. They were a bit hesitant at first cause they were also sliding around but said they’d give it a go. Graeme got out our tow rope and attached us to their vehicle then off we ‘raced’ at 20 kph through the slush, slipping and sliding sideways all the way out. The passenger in the 4WD was video taping the experience as we went. I think they may have quite enjoyed it. There were a couple of steep hills to climb and at one point the driver of the 4WD put his arm out with his thumb up – great going. We also drove through floodways – small depressions where the water goes across the road – they were exciting, as the water splashed quite high as we both drove through them. It took about a half an hour to get out on the main road. We offered the guys some money for their troubles but they kindly refused to accept it. We were very grateful and thanked the lord for very kind good people in this world and for providing us with our rescue team. We stopped and said our thankyous and goodbyes and they went north and we turned south and continued on our way. It continued to rain all day as we travelled along the ‘frog and toad.’ (Graeme’s input) We stopped at Glendambo to top up with fuel and we thought some nice warm food for lunch would be nice. I ordered the minestrone soup with toast which was all they had left of the soup so Graeme ordered eggs on toast – we didn’t have breakfast. So we waited and waited and waited for our meal as others were also waiting, waiting, waiting. They only had two people serving and didn’t seem very efficient. When we finally got our meal, I got my soup without toast and Graeme was handed raisin toast. We said he ordered eggs on toast and she apologized and took it away and made eggs on toast but Graeme had to pay more because the guy got it all wrong. By this stage I had forgotten I was supposed to have toast with my soup and Graeme finally got his meal. We shared the meals and got out of there. We were a bit annoyed because we should have just made some breaky for ourselves in the van – it would have been much nicer and less expensive but thought we would give ourselves a treat considering the morning we had. We continued on through the rain and strong head winds which slowed us down even further. We had decided to stop at Lake Hart Lookout rest area and when we finally made it there we stopped and stayed. There were a few other people stopped here too. The weather is the worse we have encountered on our whole trip and we still can’t believe those cops in the 4WD didn’t stop! We sorted out all the stuff in the van as we had just dumped it all in the back and cleaned up the floor from mud and stones. It was a bit of a clean up job. Then we sat and relaxed. I made some scones in the oven for afternoon tea which also helped to warm up the van. We had our Devonshire tea while looking out the windows at the wet windy weather outside and watching some of the other people trying to deal with this dreaded weather. Later on Graeme made tea of roasted vegies in the oven (to warm us up as well) and lamb loin chops. We then went to bed pretty early – 7.30 pm. What a day!! Thank you God for keeping us safe.
FORTYFOURTH DAY – SATURDAY 21ST AUGUST
Looked out the window and saw a lovely orange sunrise. The orange extended right along the horizon. It was pretty cold so I just watched it out the window from bed! We got up about 8 am. We had crumpets for breaky after fixing the griller so we could toast them. Something had giggled out of the griller so needed to put it back into its spot! We then packed up and went to look around Coober Pedy. First we drove up and down the main road then Graeme decided to drop into a type come workshop place to ask if they do any welding. Graeme got out and asked the guy and the guy said he would weld our bracket up for 20 bucks but he would have to go home and get his welder. So that was a pretty good deal so Graeme got the jerry cans out of their holders and disconnected the batteries in readiness for when the guy came back with his welder. It wasn’t long before he came back and it took the guy about 10 – 15 minutes to weld the jerry can bracket back on and a couple of spots on the tailgate. There was quite a bit of action in town as the election was happening so everyone was coming into town to vote. We found a park and checked out some of the shops – mainly opal selling shops and art galleries. Some of which are dug underground. We also went and looked at someones underground house, which was very interesting. Then looked around the town some more then decided we would do Toms working mine tour. This was very interesting especially as the guide herself was one of the people who worked the mine. Her dad actually owns the mine but there are about five people who help to actually work there. We also did some ‘noodeling’ which is the strange name for going through the dirt that has already been dug out and looking for any opal. We actually found a bit. We then went back into town to pick up a few supplies and fill up on fuel and headed back out to the same camp ground/spot along a dried up creek. We are the only ones here tonight – and I think this may actually be the most remote place we have stayed at. There is not much all around for as far as we can see. There are a few nice twisted old red gum trees in the creek and lots of coloured stones everywhere. When we settled in I went for a wander down the creek and Graeme collected a bit of fire wood. We had a great fire and cooked vegies in the fire again (sorry this is probably getting monotonous) but it’s a great easy way to cook them. We just have to get the time right so as not to overdo them. We also had some marinated steak. The wind is quite cold tonight so I am snuggled up in my snuggie in front of the nice warm fire.
Looked out the window and saw a lovely orange sunrise. The orange extended right along the horizon. It was pretty cold so I just watched it out the window from bed! We got up about 8 am. We had crumpets for breaky after fixing the griller so we could toast them. Something had giggled out of the griller so needed to put it back into its spot! We then packed up and went to look around Coober Pedy. First we drove up and down the main road then Graeme decided to drop into a type come workshop place to ask if they do any welding. Graeme got out and asked the guy and the guy said he would weld our bracket up for 20 bucks but he would have to go home and get his welder. So that was a pretty good deal so Graeme got the jerry cans out of their holders and disconnected the batteries in readiness for when the guy came back with his welder. It wasn’t long before he came back and it took the guy about 10 – 15 minutes to weld the jerry can bracket back on and a couple of spots on the tailgate. There was quite a bit of action in town as the election was happening so everyone was coming into town to vote. We found a park and checked out some of the shops – mainly opal selling shops and art galleries. Some of which are dug underground. We also went and looked at someones underground house, which was very interesting. Then looked around the town some more then decided we would do Toms working mine tour. This was very interesting especially as the guide herself was one of the people who worked the mine. Her dad actually owns the mine but there are about five people who help to actually work there. We also did some ‘noodeling’ which is the strange name for going through the dirt that has already been dug out and looking for any opal. We actually found a bit. We then went back into town to pick up a few supplies and fill up on fuel and headed back out to the same camp ground/spot along a dried up creek. We are the only ones here tonight – and I think this may actually be the most remote place we have stayed at. There is not much all around for as far as we can see. There are a few nice twisted old red gum trees in the creek and lots of coloured stones everywhere. When we settled in I went for a wander down the creek and Graeme collected a bit of fire wood. We had a great fire and cooked vegies in the fire again (sorry this is probably getting monotonous) but it’s a great easy way to cook them. We just have to get the time right so as not to overdo them. We also had some marinated steak. The wind is quite cold tonight so I am snuggled up in my snuggie in front of the nice warm fire.
FORTYTHIRD DAY – FRIDAY 20TH AUGUST
We had porridge for breaky, packed up and off we went at about 9 am headed south. There were no clouds to be seen. As we approached Cadney Homestead there were signs on the road indicating they were there and one said ‘Stop n Eat or we’ll both starve’ - very catchy and so we stopped and had morning tea. It was make your own cuppas with a piece of cake for four bucks each. Their slogan was also the ‘gateway to the painted desert.’ As we continued on the landscape became more desolate with very few bushes, the odd tree and lots of pebbles and red dirt. It looked quite pretty actually – hence ‘the painted desert’ I guess. We then went to ‘The Breakaways’ which is off the road down a dirt track for about 10 kms. They are a group of hills and mountains that are made up of layers of different coloured stones and ochres. There were small plants growing only in the run offs, which the water has made – which make them appear like veins across the colourful desert. It was an amazing place with distinctly different coloured hills which the aboriginals have stories for to explain their existence. We decided to go for a walk as there were supposed to be walking tracks. We began the walk on a defined track but as we continued the track kind of disappeared and so we made our own track. We walked for about one and half hours round trip to the van. It was actually a really nice walk and good to see the rocks and colours and plants up close and personal. We were thinking of camping here but as we read the info it said no camping so we thought we’d better not as it is an aboriginal site. We then drove back to the main road and into Coober Pedy where we filled up the fuel and then drove off the find our back up plan for camping the night. The sun was going down pretty quickly and it was beginning to get dark. We finally found our camping area – in the dark. Settled in for the night and had a ‘tin can dinner’ We read the brochure about Coober Pedy that I had picked up way back in NSW so we would know what to do tomorrow.
We had porridge for breaky, packed up and off we went at about 9 am headed south. There were no clouds to be seen. As we approached Cadney Homestead there were signs on the road indicating they were there and one said ‘Stop n Eat or we’ll both starve’ - very catchy and so we stopped and had morning tea. It was make your own cuppas with a piece of cake for four bucks each. Their slogan was also the ‘gateway to the painted desert.’ As we continued on the landscape became more desolate with very few bushes, the odd tree and lots of pebbles and red dirt. It looked quite pretty actually – hence ‘the painted desert’ I guess. We then went to ‘The Breakaways’ which is off the road down a dirt track for about 10 kms. They are a group of hills and mountains that are made up of layers of different coloured stones and ochres. There were small plants growing only in the run offs, which the water has made – which make them appear like veins across the colourful desert. It was an amazing place with distinctly different coloured hills which the aboriginals have stories for to explain their existence. We decided to go for a walk as there were supposed to be walking tracks. We began the walk on a defined track but as we continued the track kind of disappeared and so we made our own track. We walked for about one and half hours round trip to the van. It was actually a really nice walk and good to see the rocks and colours and plants up close and personal. We were thinking of camping here but as we read the info it said no camping so we thought we’d better not as it is an aboriginal site. We then drove back to the main road and into Coober Pedy where we filled up the fuel and then drove off the find our back up plan for camping the night. The sun was going down pretty quickly and it was beginning to get dark. We finally found our camping area – in the dark. Settled in for the night and had a ‘tin can dinner’ We read the brochure about Coober Pedy that I had picked up way back in NSW so we would know what to do tomorrow.
FORTYSECOND DAY – THURSDAY 19TH AUGUST
Slept in a bit as we were not going too far today. Graeme made a farmers breaky and we finally got going about 10 am. As we drove closer to Kulgera there were quite a few rocky outcrops jutting out of the landscape. We reached the boarder of NT and SA and of course had to stop for a photo. At this point I was glad we had stopped where we did last night as the actually wayside stops where not that nice and we were here to experience the land and the environment not to be parked in a concrete carpark! We had lunch in the van at Marla which is the first ‘town’ you get to when in SA from NT. We then travelled about another 30 kms and found an official wayside stop that was pretty good. It is very big and you can go off on dirt tracks and spread out. It is more desolate here that in NT. There is only red dirt and lots of pebbles scattered everywhere and a few mulga trees and the odd other bush. We picked out a spot, set up camp and I had a walk around the check out the area. Graeme gathered up some firewood. Several other vans are camped here too. The train line runs along not far away and as were having our dinner we heard a noise and realized it was the Ghan about to go past. It was dark and the train had all its lights on. It tooted its horn and was quite impressive. I didn’t realize it would be so long. We had toasted marshmallows for dessert.
Slept in a bit as we were not going too far today. Graeme made a farmers breaky and we finally got going about 10 am. As we drove closer to Kulgera there were quite a few rocky outcrops jutting out of the landscape. We reached the boarder of NT and SA and of course had to stop for a photo. At this point I was glad we had stopped where we did last night as the actually wayside stops where not that nice and we were here to experience the land and the environment not to be parked in a concrete carpark! We had lunch in the van at Marla which is the first ‘town’ you get to when in SA from NT. We then travelled about another 30 kms and found an official wayside stop that was pretty good. It is very big and you can go off on dirt tracks and spread out. It is more desolate here that in NT. There is only red dirt and lots of pebbles scattered everywhere and a few mulga trees and the odd other bush. We picked out a spot, set up camp and I had a walk around the check out the area. Graeme gathered up some firewood. Several other vans are camped here too. The train line runs along not far away and as were having our dinner we heard a noise and realized it was the Ghan about to go past. It was dark and the train had all its lights on. It tooted its horn and was quite impressive. I didn’t realize it would be so long. We had toasted marshmallows for dessert.
FORTYFIRST DAY – WEDNESDAY 18TH AUGUST
It rained off and on during the night. Got up and watched the sunrise from the campground lookout. There was so much cloud but the sun managed to peek through. We then had breaky and went off to drive around Uluru for the last time. We discovered an area for watching the sunrise which we didn’t know was there before. Even though we were too late for the sunrise it was a good view. You could see both Ulura and Kata at the same time. Ulura still looked awesome. It has been great to see lots of different moods of Uluru. We drove back to the resort to fill up on petrol and then off we travelled east back to Stuart Highway. We stopped at Mount Ebenezer for a snack and there was a pesky emu there. We are not sure if he was a pet one or not but he was free to roam where ever he wanted. He came up to the van and started pecking at the rubber on the door then had a try at the rubber wiper blade. He was pretty big so I just made a bit of a noise and he stopped but stayed there. I took a couple of photos and we kept going. We had lunch at the Eridunda Roadhouse – the T intersection on Stuart Hwy. We then headed south. We had already travelled 250 kms so we didn’t want to go too much further. We travelled another 50 kms or so and Graeme saw some nice wood on the side of the road so we stopped to collect some for firewood. We then realized we had stopped by a dirt track that lead into the mulga scrub. We checked it out and noticed that others had camped here before so we decided it was a good spot to camp and drove in and settled in for the night. It was a red sandy spot with no ouchies and lots of firewood – dead trees fallen over. I had a walk around and discovered lots of little holes in the ground and some very cute little mounds with holes in the middle and leaves stuck around the outside. I wonder what lives in them. As we were sitting by the fire we heard a little scurry noise and saw a very small mouse like creature darting around. We think it might have been a narrow-nosed planigale – we have a book. It was so cute scurrying here and there and then we noticed two of them. We could here little high pitched noises and think they were communicating to one another. We cooked our vegies in the fire and had porterhouse steaks to go with the vegies. This was a pretty good spot considering we accidentally found it.
It rained off and on during the night. Got up and watched the sunrise from the campground lookout. There was so much cloud but the sun managed to peek through. We then had breaky and went off to drive around Uluru for the last time. We discovered an area for watching the sunrise which we didn’t know was there before. Even though we were too late for the sunrise it was a good view. You could see both Ulura and Kata at the same time. Ulura still looked awesome. It has been great to see lots of different moods of Uluru. We drove back to the resort to fill up on petrol and then off we travelled east back to Stuart Highway. We stopped at Mount Ebenezer for a snack and there was a pesky emu there. We are not sure if he was a pet one or not but he was free to roam where ever he wanted. He came up to the van and started pecking at the rubber on the door then had a try at the rubber wiper blade. He was pretty big so I just made a bit of a noise and he stopped but stayed there. I took a couple of photos and we kept going. We had lunch at the Eridunda Roadhouse – the T intersection on Stuart Hwy. We then headed south. We had already travelled 250 kms so we didn’t want to go too much further. We travelled another 50 kms or so and Graeme saw some nice wood on the side of the road so we stopped to collect some for firewood. We then realized we had stopped by a dirt track that lead into the mulga scrub. We checked it out and noticed that others had camped here before so we decided it was a good spot to camp and drove in and settled in for the night. It was a red sandy spot with no ouchies and lots of firewood – dead trees fallen over. I had a walk around and discovered lots of little holes in the ground and some very cute little mounds with holes in the middle and leaves stuck around the outside. I wonder what lives in them. As we were sitting by the fire we heard a little scurry noise and saw a very small mouse like creature darting around. We think it might have been a narrow-nosed planigale – we have a book. It was so cute scurrying here and there and then we noticed two of them. We could here little high pitched noises and think they were communicating to one another. We cooked our vegies in the fire and had porterhouse steaks to go with the vegies. This was a pretty good spot considering we accidentally found it.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
FORTIETH DAY – TUESDAY 17TH AUGUST
I can’t believe it’s been 40 days already. We had a little sleep in this morning as we weren’t going too far today. Graeme made a yummy farmers breakfast while went and had a shower and washed by hair (you really wanted to know that didn’t you!) He’s getting very good at cooking the eggs sunny side up. We got going about 9 am to the Uluru Cultural Centre which is not far from the rock itself. On the first day we bought a pass each which gets us into the Uluru National Park for three days which you have to show through a check point area. We checked out the centre and booked ourselves into a couple of workshops – one on aboriginal art and dot painting and the other was about bush food and rock paintings and the culture of the people of this area. We then went and parked in the parking area near the rock and went for a walk. First we were only going to do a smaller walk but decided we had plenty of time to do the Base Walk which is 10.5 km walk around the base of Uluru. It was very cloudy and started out to be a great day for walking. Along the way we saw the many holes, gouges, dents and scratches in the rock. There were particular areas where you weren’t supposed to take photos as they were important sensitive sites to the Anangu people. Some sites are sensitive under traditional men’s law and others under traditional women’s law. The walk was quite easy as it was along a level gravel path. Towards the end of the walk the wind picked up and became really strong for the last 500 mts or so. At one point all you could do was stand still against the wind, and let the wind past. We finished the walk at 1.30 pm and then drove around on the road around the rock back to the cultural centre for our first workshop of dot painting. We went to the info centre to find out where the touch wall was, were we had to gather and the guy told us that he thought it had been cancelled due to the bad wind. I had to pick up the special phone which is a direct link to the organizers of the workshops/tours. Jason was on the other end and told me that the dot painting workshop had been cancelled and possibly the other tour would be too due to the over 90 km winds. I had to ring back in half an hour to find out. We then went and checked out all the different shops in the cultural centre. First went to the tucker shop to grab a drink and icypole and look at their merchandise. Then looked at the two art galleries/shops. We then rang up Jason and he told us that our second tour was also cancelled - disappointment! We were looking forward to both of the tours. We then travelled back to the campsite as we had thought ‘ oh gosh what might of happened to our table and chairs that we left set up on our site’ we checked them out and some nice camper stacked them up as he saw them blowing away in the wind. We had a good chat to him. We then went to the shops at the ‘resort’ and I wrote a couple of postcards – old fashioned style, while Graeme went and bought a few supplies for the next few days as we are leaving Uluru tomorrow to head south. We then checked out all the souvenir shops. We then headed back to camp and relaxed for awhile. I had bought a book on ‘Termites of Northern Australia’. Hey, I now know all about the little blighters – very interesting. (sorry, said I wouldn’t mention them again) We then walked to the camp lookout to watch the sun set over Uluru and Kata. It was totally different than last night as the sun was behind the very heavy cloud cover. Uluru became dark purple – I liked it. I am so glad we came yesterday though and got to see Uluru in its finest. As I write, right now, it is trying to rain (8.20 pm) and has been off and on for the last hour. Not much though just a few drops every now and then. They say you can be pretty lucky to view Uluru when it rains and so Graeme is hoping it pours down – I don’t think it is going to though. We had dinner of yummy steamed vegies and porterhouse steaks and a glass of red (this is for Liz ). We then sat outside in the slight wind and very mild night with a few drops of rain and a drop of red for me and a can of beer for him. Cheers.
I can’t believe it’s been 40 days already. We had a little sleep in this morning as we weren’t going too far today. Graeme made a yummy farmers breakfast while went and had a shower and washed by hair (you really wanted to know that didn’t you!) He’s getting very good at cooking the eggs sunny side up. We got going about 9 am to the Uluru Cultural Centre which is not far from the rock itself. On the first day we bought a pass each which gets us into the Uluru National Park for three days which you have to show through a check point area. We checked out the centre and booked ourselves into a couple of workshops – one on aboriginal art and dot painting and the other was about bush food and rock paintings and the culture of the people of this area. We then went and parked in the parking area near the rock and went for a walk. First we were only going to do a smaller walk but decided we had plenty of time to do the Base Walk which is 10.5 km walk around the base of Uluru. It was very cloudy and started out to be a great day for walking. Along the way we saw the many holes, gouges, dents and scratches in the rock. There were particular areas where you weren’t supposed to take photos as they were important sensitive sites to the Anangu people. Some sites are sensitive under traditional men’s law and others under traditional women’s law. The walk was quite easy as it was along a level gravel path. Towards the end of the walk the wind picked up and became really strong for the last 500 mts or so. At one point all you could do was stand still against the wind, and let the wind past. We finished the walk at 1.30 pm and then drove around on the road around the rock back to the cultural centre for our first workshop of dot painting. We went to the info centre to find out where the touch wall was, were we had to gather and the guy told us that he thought it had been cancelled due to the bad wind. I had to pick up the special phone which is a direct link to the organizers of the workshops/tours. Jason was on the other end and told me that the dot painting workshop had been cancelled and possibly the other tour would be too due to the over 90 km winds. I had to ring back in half an hour to find out. We then went and checked out all the different shops in the cultural centre. First went to the tucker shop to grab a drink and icypole and look at their merchandise. Then looked at the two art galleries/shops. We then rang up Jason and he told us that our second tour was also cancelled - disappointment! We were looking forward to both of the tours. We then travelled back to the campsite as we had thought ‘ oh gosh what might of happened to our table and chairs that we left set up on our site’ we checked them out and some nice camper stacked them up as he saw them blowing away in the wind. We had a good chat to him. We then went to the shops at the ‘resort’ and I wrote a couple of postcards – old fashioned style, while Graeme went and bought a few supplies for the next few days as we are leaving Uluru tomorrow to head south. We then checked out all the souvenir shops. We then headed back to camp and relaxed for awhile. I had bought a book on ‘Termites of Northern Australia’. Hey, I now know all about the little blighters – very interesting. (sorry, said I wouldn’t mention them again) We then walked to the camp lookout to watch the sun set over Uluru and Kata. It was totally different than last night as the sun was behind the very heavy cloud cover. Uluru became dark purple – I liked it. I am so glad we came yesterday though and got to see Uluru in its finest. As I write, right now, it is trying to rain (8.20 pm) and has been off and on for the last hour. Not much though just a few drops every now and then. They say you can be pretty lucky to view Uluru when it rains and so Graeme is hoping it pours down – I don’t think it is going to though. We had dinner of yummy steamed vegies and porterhouse steaks and a glass of red (this is for Liz ). We then sat outside in the slight wind and very mild night with a few drops of rain and a drop of red for me and a can of beer for him. Cheers.
Monday, August 16, 2010
THIRTYNINETH DAY – MONDAY 16TH AUGUST
We got up early to climb the small sand dune to view the sunrise. It was a bit of a fizzer actually which was disappointing. We had a quick breakfast of cereal and then packed up and off to Uluru. Along the way I was surprised to see so many trees and shrubs. There were lots of dessert oaks and bushes with tiny little white flowers completely covering them with little red centres – we think they might be a teatree of some kind – they were everywhere. Due to recent rains everything is so green and many of the wildflowers are out in bloom early – aren’t we lucky. When we arrived at the ‘resort’ at Uluru we checked out the info centre then walked to the shops to check them out and then got back into the van and drove off the big rock. Uluru is so much bigger than I expected and it is a very beautiful rock. We just went out there to get a feel of the place and then we decided to go to ‘Kata Tjuta’ (The Olgas) which was about 50 kms away. We spent some time walking to Walpa Gorge which was a lot bigger than expected. Kata Tjuta was a lot bigger than we expected as well. It is made up of smaller rocks of all types which have been ‘glued’ together by sediment that has turned to rock – in other words it’s made up of millions of ‘small’ rocks stuck together – fascinating. We then travelled back to the ‘resort’ where we went to the campground to book in. We found our site and relaxed a bit. We then went for a walk to the campground lookout from which you could see Uluru and Kata Tjuta. We then decided to get in the van and go off to watch the sunset on Uluru. I’m glad we went when we did as so many others decided to do the same. We rocked up at the viewing area and parked. It was another 50 mins or so before the sun was to be in the best position. Graeme had a good idea and got out some soup which he warmed up and we drank while watching Uluru change colour. Through our binoculars we could see people climbing up Uluru and coming down. People are discouraged to climb the rock but they say you can still if you want – and obviously people still do. We have decided not to climb it in respect to the Indigenous owners. Uluru is such a majestic rock in any colour but when it turns an amazing dark orange it looks fabulous. When the sun had gone down and began to get dark everyone moved out and so did we back to our camp. We then had dinner and settled down for the night.
We got up early to climb the small sand dune to view the sunrise. It was a bit of a fizzer actually which was disappointing. We had a quick breakfast of cereal and then packed up and off to Uluru. Along the way I was surprised to see so many trees and shrubs. There were lots of dessert oaks and bushes with tiny little white flowers completely covering them with little red centres – we think they might be a teatree of some kind – they were everywhere. Due to recent rains everything is so green and many of the wildflowers are out in bloom early – aren’t we lucky. When we arrived at the ‘resort’ at Uluru we checked out the info centre then walked to the shops to check them out and then got back into the van and drove off the big rock. Uluru is so much bigger than I expected and it is a very beautiful rock. We just went out there to get a feel of the place and then we decided to go to ‘Kata Tjuta’ (The Olgas) which was about 50 kms away. We spent some time walking to Walpa Gorge which was a lot bigger than expected. Kata Tjuta was a lot bigger than we expected as well. It is made up of smaller rocks of all types which have been ‘glued’ together by sediment that has turned to rock – in other words it’s made up of millions of ‘small’ rocks stuck together – fascinating. We then travelled back to the ‘resort’ where we went to the campground to book in. We found our site and relaxed a bit. We then went for a walk to the campground lookout from which you could see Uluru and Kata Tjuta. We then decided to get in the van and go off to watch the sunset on Uluru. I’m glad we went when we did as so many others decided to do the same. We rocked up at the viewing area and parked. It was another 50 mins or so before the sun was to be in the best position. Graeme had a good idea and got out some soup which he warmed up and we drank while watching Uluru change colour. Through our binoculars we could see people climbing up Uluru and coming down. People are discouraged to climb the rock but they say you can still if you want – and obviously people still do. We have decided not to climb it in respect to the Indigenous owners. Uluru is such a majestic rock in any colour but when it turns an amazing dark orange it looks fabulous. When the sun had gone down and began to get dark everyone moved out and so did we back to our camp. We then had dinner and settled down for the night.
THIRTYEIGHTH DAY – SUNDAY 15TH AUGUST
Graeme made a lovely breaky of eggs, bacon, mushies and tomato – yum. We packed up camp and headed south to look at the Henbury Meteorite Craters. The road said ‘no caravans’ but we sailed on down the dirt road. It was actually a really nice dirt/gravel road and not many corrugations at all – if there were, they were only little ones. We had nearly arrived at the craters when ‘CRASH’ something broke in the back of the van. It was very loud we had quick look back but wasn’t sure what it was so we continued for about 300 mts to the craters and took stock. Well we weren’t sure what to expect and as we realized what had happened we thought ‘bugger!’ The light fitting cover screw had come loose which then released the glass cover which broke into hundreds of pieces on the floor. It is an old fitting so probably won’t be able to replace it – oops. We cleaned it all up then went for a walk to the craters. They were big dents in the ground made by several meteors thousands of years ago. One hole in particular is popular with the birds as it can hold water so there are some very nice trees and shrubs growing in it and of course water. There were some rock sculptures made by some people so Graeme decided to create an artwork of his own with the rocks laying around. We then headed back to the main road south and came across a few wedgetailed eagles eating some road kill. We snuck up on them with the van and one just stayed there only a couple of meters from the van. We watched for awhile and it was amazing – they are such big, majestic creatures. He just looked at us and Graeme tried to get closer – which we did before he flew off to his mates only about 15 mts away. We then continued south and stopped at Eridunda which is at the corner of the road leading west to Uluru. We had a bit of a break, filled up the fuel, had a snack, checked out the art work and then off we travelled west towards Uluru. We only needed to be there tomorrow so we found a campsite in a wayside stop. This one is pretty good with some big trees, grasses, water tanks and a bit off the road and no ouchies, just nice orange sand. We set up camp then went for a wander into the scrub and found some wood for our fire. We also walked up a small hill from which we could view Mount Conner which is quite an impressive mountain. It could even stooge some people into thinking it was Uluru. We also notice lots and lots of little foot prints of all kinds through the orange sand dunes. They are my new favourite thing – it is fun to try and figure out what animal made them. We then sat and relaxed for awhile. I then put on our roast lamb and vegies in the oven to cook and we went back up the little orange hill to view the sunset. It was a beautiful sunset due to the fact there were some nice clouds. Mount Conner became purple with purple and pink clouds above it. Graeme made a very impressive fire with the wood we collected and it gives out a lot of heat which is nice since it’s got pretty chilly. I think we might even cook some more marshmallows on the fire tonight.
Graeme made a lovely breaky of eggs, bacon, mushies and tomato – yum. We packed up camp and headed south to look at the Henbury Meteorite Craters. The road said ‘no caravans’ but we sailed on down the dirt road. It was actually a really nice dirt/gravel road and not many corrugations at all – if there were, they were only little ones. We had nearly arrived at the craters when ‘CRASH’ something broke in the back of the van. It was very loud we had quick look back but wasn’t sure what it was so we continued for about 300 mts to the craters and took stock. Well we weren’t sure what to expect and as we realized what had happened we thought ‘bugger!’ The light fitting cover screw had come loose which then released the glass cover which broke into hundreds of pieces on the floor. It is an old fitting so probably won’t be able to replace it – oops. We cleaned it all up then went for a walk to the craters. They were big dents in the ground made by several meteors thousands of years ago. One hole in particular is popular with the birds as it can hold water so there are some very nice trees and shrubs growing in it and of course water. There were some rock sculptures made by some people so Graeme decided to create an artwork of his own with the rocks laying around. We then headed back to the main road south and came across a few wedgetailed eagles eating some road kill. We snuck up on them with the van and one just stayed there only a couple of meters from the van. We watched for awhile and it was amazing – they are such big, majestic creatures. He just looked at us and Graeme tried to get closer – which we did before he flew off to his mates only about 15 mts away. We then continued south and stopped at Eridunda which is at the corner of the road leading west to Uluru. We had a bit of a break, filled up the fuel, had a snack, checked out the art work and then off we travelled west towards Uluru. We only needed to be there tomorrow so we found a campsite in a wayside stop. This one is pretty good with some big trees, grasses, water tanks and a bit off the road and no ouchies, just nice orange sand. We set up camp then went for a wander into the scrub and found some wood for our fire. We also walked up a small hill from which we could view Mount Conner which is quite an impressive mountain. It could even stooge some people into thinking it was Uluru. We also notice lots and lots of little foot prints of all kinds through the orange sand dunes. They are my new favourite thing – it is fun to try and figure out what animal made them. We then sat and relaxed for awhile. I then put on our roast lamb and vegies in the oven to cook and we went back up the little orange hill to view the sunset. It was a beautiful sunset due to the fact there were some nice clouds. Mount Conner became purple with purple and pink clouds above it. Graeme made a very impressive fire with the wood we collected and it gives out a lot of heat which is nice since it’s got pretty chilly. I think we might even cook some more marshmallows on the fire tonight.
THIRTYSEVENTH DAY – SATURDAY 14TH AUGUST
Graeme woke me up early to see the sunrise. There were lots of fluffy clouds which created an amazing effect. The sky looked like it was on fire. We then packed up and left our ouchie, spikey place and had breakfast at Emily Gap. We then ventured back into Alice Springs to get some more supplies for the next few days. Graeme bought a painting of an aboriginal lady in the street, then we went and checked out ‘The Oldtimers Fete’ which seemed very popular as there were hundreds of people there. We looked around and realized that most of the stalls were food stalls – foods from different countries. We really didn’t want food and there were a few other craft, book and bric-a-brac stalls that we had a quick look at. There really wasn’t much that we were interested in. It seemed like a meeting place for the locals to catch up and have a chat and eat. We decided to check out the Alice Springs Reptile Park which claimed to be the largest in NT. It was great. There were many different types of reptiles on display and we even got to touch and hold some of them. I held a bearded dragon while Graeme held a big blue tongue lizard and we both got to hold a very big snake called Zeus. There was also a very friendly goanna called Spencer – after Frank Spencer. We topped up the tank with fuel then off we headed south from Alice. We travelled for about 100 km and found a pretty good camping spot near Finke River. We had a look along the river and Graeme collected some nice red gum logs for the fire.
Graeme woke me up early to see the sunrise. There were lots of fluffy clouds which created an amazing effect. The sky looked like it was on fire. We then packed up and left our ouchie, spikey place and had breakfast at Emily Gap. We then ventured back into Alice Springs to get some more supplies for the next few days. Graeme bought a painting of an aboriginal lady in the street, then we went and checked out ‘The Oldtimers Fete’ which seemed very popular as there were hundreds of people there. We looked around and realized that most of the stalls were food stalls – foods from different countries. We really didn’t want food and there were a few other craft, book and bric-a-brac stalls that we had a quick look at. There really wasn’t much that we were interested in. It seemed like a meeting place for the locals to catch up and have a chat and eat. We decided to check out the Alice Springs Reptile Park which claimed to be the largest in NT. It was great. There were many different types of reptiles on display and we even got to touch and hold some of them. I held a bearded dragon while Graeme held a big blue tongue lizard and we both got to hold a very big snake called Zeus. There was also a very friendly goanna called Spencer – after Frank Spencer. We topped up the tank with fuel then off we headed south from Alice. We travelled for about 100 km and found a pretty good camping spot near Finke River. We had a look along the river and Graeme collected some nice red gum logs for the fire.
Friday, August 13, 2010
THIRTYSIXTH DAY – FRIDAY 13TH AUGUST
Arose and watched the sunrise over the bush and distant mountains. Its was so *#**#*! cold this morning. We headed off to Hermannsburg Mission at 7.50 and arrived there at 8.45 am and had to hang around until it opened at 9. We had a look at the old cemetery near by where some of the original founders are buried. We were welcomed by a dog which looked very much like a dingo – may have some dingo in her. She followed us around – she had these freaky yellow eyes. She seemed quite friendly but we weren’t game to pat her for fear she might bite our hand off! We went and had a look around the town of Hermannsburg until it was 9 and then went and checked out the mission. We sat and watched a video about Albert Namatjira which was very interesting then had a look around the old remaining buildings. We then had an apple strudel with cream for morning tea – how German. We then travelled back east towards Alice and just outside of Alice we visited the Alice Springs Dessert Park. This took us a bit longer than expected as it was a pretty big place and really interesting. We learnt lots about the dessert animals, birds and plants that we had seen already. We also sat through a very interesting talk by a local indigenous man called Doug who spoke about aboriginal art. There are so many different aboriginal groups or countries as they call them over Australia and they all depict objects in different ways and have different languages. You can tell from where the art comes from by the style in which it is done. The Park was set up well and it took us awhile to get around it – we even missed a bit so we could get going. We had lunch in the van at about 3 pm before travelling east to East MacDonnell Ranges. We looked at Emily Gap – very pretty and also Jessie Gap which was equally at pretty with a creek running through it and big old red gums and lots of budgies chirping and flying around. We then continued to look for a campsite for the night. There were lots of dirt tracks going off the main road and Graeme wanted to explore these further for possible camp spots. So we ventured off road once more and found a nice spot looking at the ranges in the distance. The only drawback is we have those pesky ouchies again – the three corner jack things. This may sound strange but I actually swept the orange dirt to make a fairly safe area where we were going to move around in. We set up camp and sat and watched the sun set. Graeme made a fire in which we cooked our vegies again and he cooked our rump steak on the stove. Later on we cooked some more marshmallows on our quirky wire fork for dessert. Oh! I have to tell about this – earlier on when we were setting up our camp somehow we managed to lock ourselves out of the van. Thankfully Graeme had left his drivers window a little open so he managed to get a stick in and pull up the knob to open the door. It was pretty funny and we spoke of things we might of had to do if we couldn’t get in – like maybe break a window!
Arose and watched the sunrise over the bush and distant mountains. Its was so *#**#*! cold this morning. We headed off to Hermannsburg Mission at 7.50 and arrived there at 8.45 am and had to hang around until it opened at 9. We had a look at the old cemetery near by where some of the original founders are buried. We were welcomed by a dog which looked very much like a dingo – may have some dingo in her. She followed us around – she had these freaky yellow eyes. She seemed quite friendly but we weren’t game to pat her for fear she might bite our hand off! We went and had a look around the town of Hermannsburg until it was 9 and then went and checked out the mission. We sat and watched a video about Albert Namatjira which was very interesting then had a look around the old remaining buildings. We then had an apple strudel with cream for morning tea – how German. We then travelled back east towards Alice and just outside of Alice we visited the Alice Springs Dessert Park. This took us a bit longer than expected as it was a pretty big place and really interesting. We learnt lots about the dessert animals, birds and plants that we had seen already. We also sat through a very interesting talk by a local indigenous man called Doug who spoke about aboriginal art. There are so many different aboriginal groups or countries as they call them over Australia and they all depict objects in different ways and have different languages. You can tell from where the art comes from by the style in which it is done. The Park was set up well and it took us awhile to get around it – we even missed a bit so we could get going. We had lunch in the van at about 3 pm before travelling east to East MacDonnell Ranges. We looked at Emily Gap – very pretty and also Jessie Gap which was equally at pretty with a creek running through it and big old red gums and lots of budgies chirping and flying around. We then continued to look for a campsite for the night. There were lots of dirt tracks going off the main road and Graeme wanted to explore these further for possible camp spots. So we ventured off road once more and found a nice spot looking at the ranges in the distance. The only drawback is we have those pesky ouchies again – the three corner jack things. This may sound strange but I actually swept the orange dirt to make a fairly safe area where we were going to move around in. We set up camp and sat and watched the sun set. Graeme made a fire in which we cooked our vegies again and he cooked our rump steak on the stove. Later on we cooked some more marshmallows on our quirky wire fork for dessert. Oh! I have to tell about this – earlier on when we were setting up our camp somehow we managed to lock ourselves out of the van. Thankfully Graeme had left his drivers window a little open so he managed to get a stick in and pull up the knob to open the door. It was pretty funny and we spoke of things we might of had to do if we couldn’t get in – like maybe break a window!
THIRTYFIFTH DAY – THURSDAY 12TH AUGUST
Slept in a bit this morning as we didn’t have too far to go. We began to travel back east and checked out Glen Helen Gorge. There was a ‘resort’ there and campground but we just walked to the gorge. It was quite lovely with the rocks reflecting in the water. It was a shame we couldn’t walk through the gorge and see the organ-pipes rock formation which is on further. The Finke River was a bit full and took up the full width of the gorge so no one could get through unless you had a boat/kayak or swam. We then kept going west back to Alice Springs. Along the way we checked out a lookout which is near these awesome rock formations that form part of the range. They look like the plates of a stegosaurus or a serpent swimming in the sea. I just love how they stick up out of the mountains. I have also noticed that Spinifex or pincushions as I like to call them, seem to have a bit of a personal space issue. They like to grow separately – you know, with space around themselves – hey! Just an observation! They dot the mountain side with precision and grace. I love how it looks – the pincushions and the orange rock form stripes in the mountains – just brilliant – my two favourite colours together. We arrived in Alice about 1 pm, filled up on fuel then I got onto the internet to do some blogging while Graeme went and did a bit of shopping. He bought some marshmallows but couldn’t buy a toasting fork so not sure how we will cook them over the fire – maybe a stick! We then went and checked out the Mall and looked at some Art Galleries and had lunch – Kangaroo Salad with native berry dressing. While we walked the Mall an old aboriginal fella named David called us over. He was crossed legged, sitting on the ground. He gestured for us to sit next to him cause he wanted to tell us a story. Well! He wanted me to take a photo of him and Graeme – which I did and I guessed what he was going to ask – he wanted us to give him ten bucks cause he said he needed petrol, then he said he had a small daughter who needed food. I gracefully declined to give him money – I felt bad not giving him some though. He soon disappeared when police wandered down the mall. We then dropped into the info centre to find out about Ullaru camping – got a phone no. I booked a couple of nights at the camp ground as we were told we should book, for next Monday and Tuesday. We then headed back west after looking at our timeline and so decided we would check out Hermannsburg Mission tomorrow. We found an out-of-the-way campsite which is really as outback as we are going to get I think. We are camped in the middle of a ‘grassy’ area – no pincushions at least, but there are these three-corner-jack type things which stick in the bottom of your shoes and also little seedy things that attach themselves to your pants and just work themselves in – ouch. We then shifted the camper to a less grassy area and hopefully less ouchies. Graeme gathered up some firewood and made a fire while I looked around at the little foot prints – tracks in the sand and tried to determine what they might be. I think possibly some are from little lizards and little hopping rodents of some kind and maybe a snake! I noticed there were little piles of husks next to ant holes and had a closer look. I watch for awhile and noticed some ants collecting seeds from the plants and taking them into their hole, and some ants bringing out the husks and placing them in a pile near the hole and there were other ants bringing up little grains of dirt and placing them away from the whole. It was quite fascinating to watch. Then one ant got a bit adventurous and tried to take a big seed in and it blocked the hole. Other ants then helped to push it into the hole so the rest could go in and out. I know – I am amused by small things! I also love looking at the many little plants that are flowering right now. If you didn’t stop and look this close you would never know they even existed. I then discovered a bit of fencing wire and brought it back for Graeme to make a toasting fork so we can cook our marshmallows in the fire tonight. Graeme did a nice job untangling the wire and twisting it to make a fork. It works fantastically – best ever toasted marshmallows. Cheers.
Slept in a bit this morning as we didn’t have too far to go. We began to travel back east and checked out Glen Helen Gorge. There was a ‘resort’ there and campground but we just walked to the gorge. It was quite lovely with the rocks reflecting in the water. It was a shame we couldn’t walk through the gorge and see the organ-pipes rock formation which is on further. The Finke River was a bit full and took up the full width of the gorge so no one could get through unless you had a boat/kayak or swam. We then kept going west back to Alice Springs. Along the way we checked out a lookout which is near these awesome rock formations that form part of the range. They look like the plates of a stegosaurus or a serpent swimming in the sea. I just love how they stick up out of the mountains. I have also noticed that Spinifex or pincushions as I like to call them, seem to have a bit of a personal space issue. They like to grow separately – you know, with space around themselves – hey! Just an observation! They dot the mountain side with precision and grace. I love how it looks – the pincushions and the orange rock form stripes in the mountains – just brilliant – my two favourite colours together. We arrived in Alice about 1 pm, filled up on fuel then I got onto the internet to do some blogging while Graeme went and did a bit of shopping. He bought some marshmallows but couldn’t buy a toasting fork so not sure how we will cook them over the fire – maybe a stick! We then went and checked out the Mall and looked at some Art Galleries and had lunch – Kangaroo Salad with native berry dressing. While we walked the Mall an old aboriginal fella named David called us over. He was crossed legged, sitting on the ground. He gestured for us to sit next to him cause he wanted to tell us a story. Well! He wanted me to take a photo of him and Graeme – which I did and I guessed what he was going to ask – he wanted us to give him ten bucks cause he said he needed petrol, then he said he had a small daughter who needed food. I gracefully declined to give him money – I felt bad not giving him some though. He soon disappeared when police wandered down the mall. We then dropped into the info centre to find out about Ullaru camping – got a phone no. I booked a couple of nights at the camp ground as we were told we should book, for next Monday and Tuesday. We then headed back west after looking at our timeline and so decided we would check out Hermannsburg Mission tomorrow. We found an out-of-the-way campsite which is really as outback as we are going to get I think. We are camped in the middle of a ‘grassy’ area – no pincushions at least, but there are these three-corner-jack type things which stick in the bottom of your shoes and also little seedy things that attach themselves to your pants and just work themselves in – ouch. We then shifted the camper to a less grassy area and hopefully less ouchies. Graeme gathered up some firewood and made a fire while I looked around at the little foot prints – tracks in the sand and tried to determine what they might be. I think possibly some are from little lizards and little hopping rodents of some kind and maybe a snake! I noticed there were little piles of husks next to ant holes and had a closer look. I watch for awhile and noticed some ants collecting seeds from the plants and taking them into their hole, and some ants bringing out the husks and placing them in a pile near the hole and there were other ants bringing up little grains of dirt and placing them away from the whole. It was quite fascinating to watch. Then one ant got a bit adventurous and tried to take a big seed in and it blocked the hole. Other ants then helped to push it into the hole so the rest could go in and out. I know – I am amused by small things! I also love looking at the many little plants that are flowering right now. If you didn’t stop and look this close you would never know they even existed. I then discovered a bit of fencing wire and brought it back for Graeme to make a toasting fork so we can cook our marshmallows in the fire tonight. Graeme did a nice job untangling the wire and twisting it to make a fork. It works fantastically – best ever toasted marshmallows. Cheers.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
THIRTYFOURTH DAY – WEDNESDAY 11TH AUGUST
Got up at 8 am had breaky, packed up and travelled further west along Namatjira Drive. Noticed many flocks of green budgies and small zebra finches. . We first went to the Ochre Pits where the indigenous men collect the different coloured ochres to use for their body painting for ceremonies etc. The colours in the pit face were brilliant – white, yellows and reds. We continued on to Ormiston Gorge which was beautiful with a big waterhole with big old red gums along the banks of the river. We walked up to the lookout which in itself was an amazing structure of rusty steel. We were amazed at how they could construct it in that situation. We think helicopters would have played a part. Then off to Redbank Gorge. It was a pretty rough road to get there but it was worth the effort. We had lunch in the sun then went on a walk to the gorge. The walk was a bit rough with lots of rocks to negotiate. I was a bit worried about my dodgy ankles but I managed. The gorge was lovely with a very cold waterhole (just ask Graeme) at the base and running through it. We then wandered back and drove to our campsite for the night which was just up the road on top of a hill with the best view. We ended up being the only campers there for the night so it was lovely and quiet and all ours! Picture this – me, sitting in my chair, in the sun, reading a magazine with a wine in hand overlooking part of the amazing West Macdonald Ranges and watching the sun go down. We cooked vegies on the open fire and had another go at camel steaks – these were better than last nights ones. We also had baked bananas with chocolate – cooked in the fire – with cream!
Got up at 8 am had breaky, packed up and travelled further west along Namatjira Drive. Noticed many flocks of green budgies and small zebra finches. . We first went to the Ochre Pits where the indigenous men collect the different coloured ochres to use for their body painting for ceremonies etc. The colours in the pit face were brilliant – white, yellows and reds. We continued on to Ormiston Gorge which was beautiful with a big waterhole with big old red gums along the banks of the river. We walked up to the lookout which in itself was an amazing structure of rusty steel. We were amazed at how they could construct it in that situation. We think helicopters would have played a part. Then off to Redbank Gorge. It was a pretty rough road to get there but it was worth the effort. We had lunch in the sun then went on a walk to the gorge. The walk was a bit rough with lots of rocks to negotiate. I was a bit worried about my dodgy ankles but I managed. The gorge was lovely with a very cold waterhole (just ask Graeme) at the base and running through it. We then wandered back and drove to our campsite for the night which was just up the road on top of a hill with the best view. We ended up being the only campers there for the night so it was lovely and quiet and all ours! Picture this – me, sitting in my chair, in the sun, reading a magazine with a wine in hand overlooking part of the amazing West Macdonald Ranges and watching the sun go down. We cooked vegies on the open fire and had another go at camel steaks – these were better than last nights ones. We also had baked bananas with chocolate – cooked in the fire – with cream!
THIRTYTHIRD DAY – TUESDAY 10TH AUGUST
Got up fairly early and had a shower and washed hair since we were in a proper caravan park and we paid for it so use what we can. We had pancakes for breaky and then off we went to buy some more meat for next few days. We can’t keep meat for too long so we like to just buy it a couple a days at a time. Then off we travelled west towards Simpsons Gap. We went for a little walk along a rocky path to see the gap that has a river running through it. The rocks light up when the sun came out. There were quite a few clouds so I hope they disappear before get to Standley Chasm so the sun can shine nicely. We then went for a little walk to look at some local flora and a very big ghost gum that was a couple of hundred years old – although looked a lot older. We then travelled along further to Standley Chasm where there was a cafe. It was so cold we decided to have some hot drinks and a toasted sandwich each. Then we went for the walk up the gorge to see the chasm. The walk was beautiful with ghost gums, river red gums, cycads, and other bushes and trees along a very rocky creek bed all set into a gorge of red/orange rock. The contrast of colours were amazing. The clouds began to disappear (yay!) and the sun came out to show up the beautiful white of the ghost gums against the orange of the rocks and blue of the sky. We arrived at Standley Chasm just at the perfect time to see the sun shining on one side of the chasm which in turn gave off reflective light onto the opposite side to give an amazing glowing effect throughout the chasm. Simply breathtaking. The colours were absolutely wonderful. We stayed to watch the sun shine into the chasm and onto the other side but somehow it wasn’t as effective as the other side. We then ambled back along the lovely rocky walking track while I took a few photos of the amazing colours. I just love this place with all its colours. We then kept going onto a place called Ellery Creek Bighole. By this time it was about 3pm so we decided to stay in the camping ground. We set up camp and then went for a short walk to the ‘big hole’. Which in fact was a pretty big hole in the ground, filled with very cold water surrounded by big old river red gums, at the base of another chasm. It looked very peaceful. As we were in no hurry to go anywhere as we were staying we walked along the rocky dry river bed which runs along the river which actually has water in it. There were many old red gums along the river and the sun was shining on them making it look very picturesque. When we got back to the van I downloaded my many photos of the day while we began preparing for dinner. We had camel steaks – which were a bit tough actually – so was a bit disappointing, and steamed vegies. I am about to put my scones in the oven to cook and to help warm up the van as it is *#**#! freezing tonight.
Got up fairly early and had a shower and washed hair since we were in a proper caravan park and we paid for it so use what we can. We had pancakes for breaky and then off we went to buy some more meat for next few days. We can’t keep meat for too long so we like to just buy it a couple a days at a time. Then off we travelled west towards Simpsons Gap. We went for a little walk along a rocky path to see the gap that has a river running through it. The rocks light up when the sun came out. There were quite a few clouds so I hope they disappear before get to Standley Chasm so the sun can shine nicely. We then went for a little walk to look at some local flora and a very big ghost gum that was a couple of hundred years old – although looked a lot older. We then travelled along further to Standley Chasm where there was a cafe. It was so cold we decided to have some hot drinks and a toasted sandwich each. Then we went for the walk up the gorge to see the chasm. The walk was beautiful with ghost gums, river red gums, cycads, and other bushes and trees along a very rocky creek bed all set into a gorge of red/orange rock. The contrast of colours were amazing. The clouds began to disappear (yay!) and the sun came out to show up the beautiful white of the ghost gums against the orange of the rocks and blue of the sky. We arrived at Standley Chasm just at the perfect time to see the sun shining on one side of the chasm which in turn gave off reflective light onto the opposite side to give an amazing glowing effect throughout the chasm. Simply breathtaking. The colours were absolutely wonderful. We stayed to watch the sun shine into the chasm and onto the other side but somehow it wasn’t as effective as the other side. We then ambled back along the lovely rocky walking track while I took a few photos of the amazing colours. I just love this place with all its colours. We then kept going onto a place called Ellery Creek Bighole. By this time it was about 3pm so we decided to stay in the camping ground. We set up camp and then went for a short walk to the ‘big hole’. Which in fact was a pretty big hole in the ground, filled with very cold water surrounded by big old river red gums, at the base of another chasm. It looked very peaceful. As we were in no hurry to go anywhere as we were staying we walked along the rocky dry river bed which runs along the river which actually has water in it. There were many old red gums along the river and the sun was shining on them making it look very picturesque. When we got back to the van I downloaded my many photos of the day while we began preparing for dinner. We had camel steaks – which were a bit tough actually – so was a bit disappointing, and steamed vegies. I am about to put my scones in the oven to cook and to help warm up the van as it is *#**#! freezing tonight.
Monday, August 9, 2010
THIRTYSECOND DAY – MONDAY 9TH AUGUST
Woke up early to see the sunrise. Climbed the rocks to get a good view. There were funny fluffy little white clouds which made the sunrise look interesting. Had breaky then off we went about 8 am. I love the red rocky hills dotted with Spinifex and the short scrub in full bloom with different hues of yellow, white, purple and pink flowers and also the many different types of grasses blowing in the wind. We stopped at Ti Tree where ‘The most central pub in Australia is.’ South of Ti Tree we unexpectantly discovered a Mango and Grape Farm. They make mango wine and other yummy things. We had some tastings and bought some. We finally reached Alice Springs after stopping for a quick nap as Graeme was a bit tired. We dropped into the info centre as usual to grab info, or course, about the surrounding areas. We also saw a note about voting so off we went like good little citizens and voted. We then did a bit of grocery shopping and then found a caravan park to stay in. We settled in then did a load of washing, a few phone calls and internet while we have reception. We had kangaroo steaks and salad for dinner.
Woke up early to see the sunrise. Climbed the rocks to get a good view. There were funny fluffy little white clouds which made the sunrise look interesting. Had breaky then off we went about 8 am. I love the red rocky hills dotted with Spinifex and the short scrub in full bloom with different hues of yellow, white, purple and pink flowers and also the many different types of grasses blowing in the wind. We stopped at Ti Tree where ‘The most central pub in Australia is.’ South of Ti Tree we unexpectantly discovered a Mango and Grape Farm. They make mango wine and other yummy things. We had some tastings and bought some. We finally reached Alice Springs after stopping for a quick nap as Graeme was a bit tired. We dropped into the info centre as usual to grab info, or course, about the surrounding areas. We also saw a note about voting so off we went like good little citizens and voted. We then did a bit of grocery shopping and then found a caravan park to stay in. We settled in then did a load of washing, a few phone calls and internet while we have reception. We had kangaroo steaks and salad for dinner.
THIRTYFIRST DAY – SUNDAY 8TH AUGUST
You know those geese I mentioned, well, can they make a noise, even during the night! Slept in a bit and had a farmers breakfast and left at 9.45 am. At Tennant Creek we fuelled up and checked out the ‘lookout’ which overlooked the town and thats about it. On our way out of TC we noticed a couple of beer trees – they were actually trees with twirling beer cans all over them – looked very effective when the sun shone on them. Along the way there were lots of flowering bushes and ground covers and we stopped to have a good look at them. I love this type of bush/scrub. There are so many different types of grasses and flowering natives and lots of little birds. At some point along the way there were bigger trees – I especially like the ghost gums. We arrived at ‘Devils Marbles’ around 2.30 pm were we are camped for the night. It cost us a whole $6.60 to camp. We chose a spot and set up camp. Then we went for a bit of a walk around the Marbles. It was pretty hot and we walked around for about 30 mins then went back to ‘The Snail.’ We chilled out for awhile then went out for a longer walk about 5pm when we walked all over the area checking out the different rock outcrops. The Marbles are an amazing set of big round boulders sitting on top of each other. They were also fun to climb around. We stayed out until the sun set as the rocks began to glow red when the sun goes down. Most of the other campers were sitting/standing on top of the rocks watching the sunset. We then made our way back to the van and cooked dinner.
You know those geese I mentioned, well, can they make a noise, even during the night! Slept in a bit and had a farmers breakfast and left at 9.45 am. At Tennant Creek we fuelled up and checked out the ‘lookout’ which overlooked the town and thats about it. On our way out of TC we noticed a couple of beer trees – they were actually trees with twirling beer cans all over them – looked very effective when the sun shone on them. Along the way there were lots of flowering bushes and ground covers and we stopped to have a good look at them. I love this type of bush/scrub. There are so many different types of grasses and flowering natives and lots of little birds. At some point along the way there were bigger trees – I especially like the ghost gums. We arrived at ‘Devils Marbles’ around 2.30 pm were we are camped for the night. It cost us a whole $6.60 to camp. We chose a spot and set up camp. Then we went for a bit of a walk around the Marbles. It was pretty hot and we walked around for about 30 mins then went back to ‘The Snail.’ We chilled out for awhile then went out for a longer walk about 5pm when we walked all over the area checking out the different rock outcrops. The Marbles are an amazing set of big round boulders sitting on top of each other. They were also fun to climb around. We stayed out until the sun set as the rocks began to glow red when the sun goes down. Most of the other campers were sitting/standing on top of the rocks watching the sunset. We then made our way back to the van and cooked dinner.
THIRTIETH DAY – SATURDAY 7TH AUGUST
Today we had pancakes for breakie with golden syrup. We left at 8.45 southward into the wild blue yonder. This was a travelling day as we have already been north through this area a week ago. As we moseyed along, we saw what we thought were clouds in the far distance but as we got closer we realised it was smoke from a bush fire. We couldn’t see the fire but there sure was a lot of smoke. We travelled about a km then it was back to blue skies. We topped up our fuel in Dunmarra and had lunch under a shady tree. While we were getting fuel a friendly old guy who was painting the service station had a chat, he was a great character. He heard the music we were playing and wanted to know what it was. My new favourite music by ‘Jabaru’. He also told us he was on a holiday and picked up the painting job. He left home with his wife and rented his house out and told the family “we’re going on a holiday, don’t know when we’ll back.” We finally arrived at Renna Springs – a roadside house come pub come caravan park come truckies stop come tradies stop come road-workers stop. We got a non-powered site and we are camped by a biggish pond with a very big windmill on an island in the middle of the pond with geese. We ended up buying a pub tea as both of us liked the idea of having a night off cooking and washing dishes. I can’t believe it’s only 8 pm. It seems so much later and Graeme has fallen asleep on the couch!
Today we had pancakes for breakie with golden syrup. We left at 8.45 southward into the wild blue yonder. This was a travelling day as we have already been north through this area a week ago. As we moseyed along, we saw what we thought were clouds in the far distance but as we got closer we realised it was smoke from a bush fire. We couldn’t see the fire but there sure was a lot of smoke. We travelled about a km then it was back to blue skies. We topped up our fuel in Dunmarra and had lunch under a shady tree. While we were getting fuel a friendly old guy who was painting the service station had a chat, he was a great character. He heard the music we were playing and wanted to know what it was. My new favourite music by ‘Jabaru’. He also told us he was on a holiday and picked up the painting job. He left home with his wife and rented his house out and told the family “we’re going on a holiday, don’t know when we’ll back.” We finally arrived at Renna Springs – a roadside house come pub come caravan park come truckies stop come tradies stop come road-workers stop. We got a non-powered site and we are camped by a biggish pond with a very big windmill on an island in the middle of the pond with geese. We ended up buying a pub tea as both of us liked the idea of having a night off cooking and washing dishes. I can’t believe it’s only 8 pm. It seems so much later and Graeme has fallen asleep on the couch!
TWENTYNINETH DAY – FRIDAY 6TH AUGUST
Got up and left at 8.50 am for Katherine – about an hour. Once in Katherine we had a look at the Top Didj & Art Gallery then went to the Cycad Gardens which was a garden in amongst rocks with lots of cycads and cacti and natives. We ended up having breakfast there in their little cafe. I had a cheese, ham and tomato toasted sandwich with a hot chocolate and Graeme had an egg and bacon toasted sandwich with cappuccino. They were very nice and we highly recommend them. We were then going to check out the School of the Air but unfortunately they were closed for the day – a pity because I was really interested in seeing them in action. We then went and looked at the Rare Rocks and the Springvale Homestead which is the oldest homestead in the NT. We then had a bit of extra time to spare so we went for a bike ride along the bike track along Katherine River. After the ride we had a swim in Katherine Springs – an artesian spring – there are heaps of springs in this area. Graeme had to wait till after 2 pm to buy some more beer – this is when the pubs open around here. Then off we travelled further south to Bitter Springs – yes another springs. We stayed in a caravan park in the non-powered section which means you can choose where to camp. We chose a lovely spot along the river surrounded by palm trees. We set up camp and then got on our bikes and peddled to the Bitter Springs just down the road a bit. This was a lovely place were the spring is a little winding river so you go in one end and can float or swim to the other end. You can get out at the end via a ladder or try to swim against the current back to the beginning. The water is so clear and a turquoise colour. There were palms all along the banks and a family of tortoise swimming in the water. We got out before it got too dark and drove our bikes back to the park with torches in hand – our bikes don’t have lights – we usually only ride in daylight hours. Got back to camp and Graeme started up the fire and cooked tea. We had a little trouble with the water pipe leading from under the kitchen sink but Graeme managed to fix it, for now.
Got up and left at 8.50 am for Katherine – about an hour. Once in Katherine we had a look at the Top Didj & Art Gallery then went to the Cycad Gardens which was a garden in amongst rocks with lots of cycads and cacti and natives. We ended up having breakfast there in their little cafe. I had a cheese, ham and tomato toasted sandwich with a hot chocolate and Graeme had an egg and bacon toasted sandwich with cappuccino. They were very nice and we highly recommend them. We were then going to check out the School of the Air but unfortunately they were closed for the day – a pity because I was really interested in seeing them in action. We then went and looked at the Rare Rocks and the Springvale Homestead which is the oldest homestead in the NT. We then had a bit of extra time to spare so we went for a bike ride along the bike track along Katherine River. After the ride we had a swim in Katherine Springs – an artesian spring – there are heaps of springs in this area. Graeme had to wait till after 2 pm to buy some more beer – this is when the pubs open around here. Then off we travelled further south to Bitter Springs – yes another springs. We stayed in a caravan park in the non-powered section which means you can choose where to camp. We chose a lovely spot along the river surrounded by palm trees. We set up camp and then got on our bikes and peddled to the Bitter Springs just down the road a bit. This was a lovely place were the spring is a little winding river so you go in one end and can float or swim to the other end. You can get out at the end via a ladder or try to swim against the current back to the beginning. The water is so clear and a turquoise colour. There were palms all along the banks and a family of tortoise swimming in the water. We got out before it got too dark and drove our bikes back to the park with torches in hand – our bikes don’t have lights – we usually only ride in daylight hours. Got back to camp and Graeme started up the fire and cooked tea. We had a little trouble with the water pipe leading from under the kitchen sink but Graeme managed to fix it, for now.
TWENTYEIGHTH DAY – THURSDAY 5TH AUGUST
After having porridge for breakfast we left Edith Falls at 8.05 am. When we arrived in Katherine we had a few things to do. While Graeme went and did some shopping for supplies I got onto the internet and transferred my diary into my blog. I also sent messages to the kids while I had reception and a couple of friends. We filled the tanks with water and filled one of the gas bottles which by the way has lasted us over two weeks on one bottle – we do have two though. Once we had finished doing everything we needed to do off we went to Katherine Gorge or should I say Nitmiluk. When we arrived at Nitmiluk we went to the info centre and booked our camp site and also a couple of tours then went and picked our unpowered campsite out – set up camp and then had some quick lunch before getting on our bikes for a ride to our first tour – a helicopter ride over the thirteen gorges. This was Graeme’s birthday present from me. I was a bit nervous as some of you know I’m not real good with heights! However, once we had flown up in the air – I was holding onto the seat pretty tightly at first, I became more relaxed and was able to enjoy the ride. I was sitting in the front seat as I had the camera and I clicked away as much as I could as you go pretty fast. Everything looked so small from up there. You could see the tourist boats and the kayaks on the river – they looked like little ants. Apparently we were about 1,000 feet up in the air according to Graeme who was actually listening to the pilot as he made regular calls back to base as to where we were. We also saw wild buffalo and the pilot said he could see a crocodile on a sandbank but we couldn’t see it – he must have telescopic eyes or something to see that! Before we knew it we were back on the ground after about a 20 min flight. We jumped on our bikes and rode back to camp. We had another snack before heading down to our next tour of a ride down the river through two gorges on a boat. This was a lovely relaxing way to spend the rest of the afternoon. It was also great to see it from a different perspective. We saw it from way up high which made it look really small and now we were down inside the gorge it was actually pretty big. The boat meandered along while the skipper told us about various aspects of the gorge. He also told us about some of the plants growing there and what the indigenous people used them for – very interesting. One plant they use to make the fish in a waterhole go to sleep and they float to the surface, then grab how many fish they need then get the kids to splash the water around to put back oxygen in the water and the rest of the sleeping fish all come to and go back to swimming around in the pond – now that’s my kind of fishing! We had to get out of the boat at the end of the first gorge and walk about 400 m to the next gorge as there are natural rock spots in between each gorge. We viewed some rock art which has been there for hundreds of years painted by the Jawoyn people. The second gorge was prettier than the first and it had taller rock faces and closer together. Along the way we saw several fresh water crocodiles just lazing around in the sun on the backs. The cruise took two hours and we were back at camp by 4.30 pm. We then relaxed and sat around discussing the day and also what we’ll be doing for the next couple of days. We then made dinner of lamb chops and salad. In the middle of the camping ground is a pool and we could hear music playing so we went to investigate. We discovered there was a two person band playing some of the good old classics and there was also a very nice licensed bistro. They had lots of food on offer but we had just eaten so I bought a pine-lime splice and Graeme had a bundy & coke. We sat by the very lovely looking billabong pool and listened to the music and also watching a very cleaver blue winged kookaburra swooping down on the bugs that were attracted to the big flood lights. He was having a great time and he was fun to watch. After finishing off our yummies we headed back to the van to relax after a pretty nice hot cloudless day.
After having porridge for breakfast we left Edith Falls at 8.05 am. When we arrived in Katherine we had a few things to do. While Graeme went and did some shopping for supplies I got onto the internet and transferred my diary into my blog. I also sent messages to the kids while I had reception and a couple of friends. We filled the tanks with water and filled one of the gas bottles which by the way has lasted us over two weeks on one bottle – we do have two though. Once we had finished doing everything we needed to do off we went to Katherine Gorge or should I say Nitmiluk. When we arrived at Nitmiluk we went to the info centre and booked our camp site and also a couple of tours then went and picked our unpowered campsite out – set up camp and then had some quick lunch before getting on our bikes for a ride to our first tour – a helicopter ride over the thirteen gorges. This was Graeme’s birthday present from me. I was a bit nervous as some of you know I’m not real good with heights! However, once we had flown up in the air – I was holding onto the seat pretty tightly at first, I became more relaxed and was able to enjoy the ride. I was sitting in the front seat as I had the camera and I clicked away as much as I could as you go pretty fast. Everything looked so small from up there. You could see the tourist boats and the kayaks on the river – they looked like little ants. Apparently we were about 1,000 feet up in the air according to Graeme who was actually listening to the pilot as he made regular calls back to base as to where we were. We also saw wild buffalo and the pilot said he could see a crocodile on a sandbank but we couldn’t see it – he must have telescopic eyes or something to see that! Before we knew it we were back on the ground after about a 20 min flight. We jumped on our bikes and rode back to camp. We had another snack before heading down to our next tour of a ride down the river through two gorges on a boat. This was a lovely relaxing way to spend the rest of the afternoon. It was also great to see it from a different perspective. We saw it from way up high which made it look really small and now we were down inside the gorge it was actually pretty big. The boat meandered along while the skipper told us about various aspects of the gorge. He also told us about some of the plants growing there and what the indigenous people used them for – very interesting. One plant they use to make the fish in a waterhole go to sleep and they float to the surface, then grab how many fish they need then get the kids to splash the water around to put back oxygen in the water and the rest of the sleeping fish all come to and go back to swimming around in the pond – now that’s my kind of fishing! We had to get out of the boat at the end of the first gorge and walk about 400 m to the next gorge as there are natural rock spots in between each gorge. We viewed some rock art which has been there for hundreds of years painted by the Jawoyn people. The second gorge was prettier than the first and it had taller rock faces and closer together. Along the way we saw several fresh water crocodiles just lazing around in the sun on the backs. The cruise took two hours and we were back at camp by 4.30 pm. We then relaxed and sat around discussing the day and also what we’ll be doing for the next couple of days. We then made dinner of lamb chops and salad. In the middle of the camping ground is a pool and we could hear music playing so we went to investigate. We discovered there was a two person band playing some of the good old classics and there was also a very nice licensed bistro. They had lots of food on offer but we had just eaten so I bought a pine-lime splice and Graeme had a bundy & coke. We sat by the very lovely looking billabong pool and listened to the music and also watching a very cleaver blue winged kookaburra swooping down on the bugs that were attracted to the big flood lights. He was having a great time and he was fun to watch. After finishing off our yummies we headed back to the van to relax after a pretty nice hot cloudless day.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
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